Jeff and Jon from TodaysCraftsmen shared the woodworking tip featured in this video.
Many woodworkers don’t realize they can cut non-ferrous metals like brass and aluminum directly on their table saw, opening up possibilities for incorporating custom metal accents into their projects.
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Understanding Non-Ferrous Metals
Jeff and Jon demonstrate cutting several types of non-ferrous metals, which are non-magnetic materials that can be safely cut on woodworking equipment. Their examples include brass tubing used for custom furniture legs on walnut built-ins, solid square aluminum stock for drawer file bars, and various aluminum tubes and bars for shop organization and project accents.
These metals offer woodworkers the ability to create custom hardware and accents that would be difficult or expensive to source commercially. The flexibility to cut exact lengths and create specific profiles makes incorporating metal elements much more accessible.
Blade Selection and Setup
While standard woodworking blades can cut non-ferrous metals, Jeff and Jon recommend using specialized metal-cutting blades for frequent use. These blades feature different tooth geometry, including a negative hook angle that tips the teeth backward rather than forward like wood-cutting blades.
The specialized metal blades provide cleaner cuts and longer blade life when working with aluminum and brass. Regular wood blades will work but will dull faster when cutting metal materials.
SawStop Considerations
For users with SawStop table saws, cutting metal requires engaging bypass mode to prevent triggering the safety brake system. Jeff demonstrates the process of turning the key and holding it through specific light flashes to activate bypass mode.
This bypass mode must be engaged for each individual cut session, making it important to develop consistent safety habits. Jeff suggests using tape to remind yourself to engage bypass mode when making multiple metal cuts.
Cutting Techniques and Safety
The cutting process requires slower feed rates than wood, with thicker materials demanding even more patience. Jeff demonstrates cutting thin-walled aluminum tube, solid aluminum bar, and thick brass tubing, showing how each material responds differently.
Safety considerations include wearing both safety glasses and a face shield, as metal cutting produces different debris than wood. The aluminum pieces become extremely hot during cutting due to the metal’s high conductivity, requiring careful handling of offcuts and workpieces.
Round materials like brass tubing present additional challenges, potentially requiring fixtures for repeated cuts to prevent rotation during the cutting process.
Applications and Benefits
The ability to cut metal on standard woodworking equipment opens up numerous design possibilities, from custom furniture legs to shop organization solutions. Jeff and Jon highlight applications like brass grommets for countertops, aluminum file bars for drawers, and custom-height legs for built-in furniture.
This technique allows woodworkers to create truly custom pieces while maintaining precise control over dimensions and finishes. The clean cuts achieved with proper technique and blade selection rival those from dedicated metalworking equipment for these lighter materials.
Adding metal cutting capabilities to your woodworking arsenal provides new creative opportunities while solving practical problems with custom hardware and accents. The combination of proper technique, appropriate blades, and safety precautions makes this advanced skill accessible to any woodworker with a quality table saw.
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Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
I’ve been cutting aluminum and brass on my table saw for years, and it’s one of those game-changing techniques that really expands what you can do in the shop. The key thing to remember is that metal cutting generates a lot more heat than wood, so those pieces will be scorching hot when they come off the saw. I always keep a bucket of water nearby for cooling cut pieces, and leather gloves are essential for handling anything thicker than thin-wall tubing.
One safety point worth emphasizing: metal chips fly differently than wood chips. They’re smaller, hotter, and can bounce unpredictably off surfaces. A face shield over safety glasses isn’t overkill here – it’s necessary protection. I also make sure my shop vacuum is running to catch as much debris as possible during the cut.
For anyone considering this technique, start with thin aluminum stock to get a feel for the different feed rates and cutting behavior. Brass cuts beautifully but can grab more aggressively than aluminum, so maintaining steady, consistent pressure is crucial. The investment in a dedicated metal-cutting blade really pays off if you plan to do this regularly – the tooth geometry makes a noticeable difference in cut quality and blade longevity.