This video was created by Billy from Newton Makes. It’s packed with smart, practical advice for building wooden boxes that are both strong and beautiful—perfect for woodworkers looking to refine their skills.
Billy shares dozens of small but important tips that add up to big improvements in box making, from grain selection to joinery, proportions, and finishing. Whether you’re just getting started or have a few boxes under your belt, this video is worth bookmarking.
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Proportions and Grain: Starting with the Right Foundation
Billy begins by emphasizing the importance of proportion when designing a box. He uses the golden ratio (around 1.618) as a guide to determine the most pleasing length-to-width relationship.
Although not a strict rule, the golden ratio helps avoid awkward or clunky dimensions. Billy often defaults to a 5×8 size ratio, which naturally aligns with this principle and produces a balanced, elegant look.
Grain orientation also plays a huge role in the finished box’s appearance. Billy prefers long, straight grain that flows around the box’s perimeter. Boards with cathedral grain or inconsistent figure are reserved for shorter sides to keep the overall design clean and unified.
Milling and Cutting for Accuracy
The process begins by flattening and smoothing one face of each board to create a reference surface. From there, he resaws and planes the wood to final thickness—thin enough for elegance, but thick enough to avoid fragility.
Billy recommends resawing thicker boards when possible, especially for smaller boxes. This technique also makes it easier to match grain patterns across sides, giving the finished box a more seamless and intentional look.
For precision, he double-checks that the table saw blade is square to the table and that the miter gauge is set to a true 90 degrees. Even a slight angle can affect how tightly the box fits together, especially at the corners.
Choosing Joinery That Balances Looks and Strength
For box corners, Billy explores several joinery types but lands on box joints as his go-to option. They’re easier to cut than dovetails and provide more strength than plain miters.
He uses a flat-tooth ripping blade to ensure clean, square cuts and demonstrates how to avoid tear-out using sacrificial boards on his sled. For large box joints, he rough cuts near the line, then fine-tunes the fit with a stop block setup—a method that speeds things up without sacrificing precision.
Cutting Grooves for the Lid and Bottom
Rather than using a table saw, Billy prefers a router table to cut grooves for the lid and bottom panels. This method eliminates entry and exit holes that can disrupt the look of exposed joinery.
Stop cuts made with a router also reduce the chance of overcutting, which can weaken the corners or leave visible gaps. The groove placement is carefully measured to leave enough material at the edge for structural integrity.
Sizing and Fitting the Bottom Panel
The bottom panel might seem like an afterthought, but Billy gives it real attention. A thicker bottom produces a more solid feel and makes a satisfying “thud” sound when tapped, versus the hollow ring of thin plywood.
He marks the internal dimensions with a combination square, then cuts the panel slightly undersized to account for wood movement. Leaving just a bit of space ensures the bottom won’t bind or crack with seasonal changes in humidity.
Lid Design and Details
The lid is a great opportunity to add flair or contrast. Billy selects a walnut board with beautiful figure for this build, which complements the body of the box and gives it a custom look.
To make the lid easy to remove, he adds a thumb notch or a small pull tab made from a matching piece of wood. Though gluing across the grain is usually discouraged, Billy has found success with small inlaid pulls when using proper technique.
Finishing with a Natural Feel
Finishing is all about enhancing the wood’s character without masking it. Billy recommends avoiding thick lacquer or heavy poly that can create a plastic-like appearance.
Instead, he uses oils or hard wax finishes that soak into the wood and preserve its texture. For a subtle protective layer, he sometimes thins polyurethane with mineral spirits and mixes in a little tongue oil for a smoother feel.
Final Takeaways from the Box Making Process
The most impressive thing about this video is how many small decisions add up to a big difference. Billy’s tips around grain orientation, clean cuts, joint fit, and subtle design details all contribute to a final product that feels carefully made and highly functional.
This isn’t a build that requires fancy tools or exotic materials—it’s about slowing down, making smart choices, and paying attention to the little things that separate a good box from a great one.
Please support Billy by visiting his website here: https://www.newtonmakes.com/shop.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
Billy’s approach to box making really resonates with how I think about woodworking — it’s all those small details that separate a decent project from something truly special. The golden ratio tip is something worth keeping in mind for any project where proportions matter. When something feels “off” visually, it’s often because the proportions are fighting each other.
The router table method for cutting grooves is spot-on. I’ve seen too many boxes where table saw entry holes create weak spots or just look sloppy on exposed joinery. A router gives you that clean start and stop, plus better control over depth. Just remember to take light passes — trying to hog out material in one go is a recipe for tear-out, especially on figured wood.
That point about bottom panel thickness is something a lot of woodworkers overlook. A substantial bottom doesn’t just feel better — it actually helps the whole box stay square and rigid over time. Thin bottoms can bow or flex, which puts stress on your carefully fitted joints. For wood movement, I usually aim for about 1/32″ clearance around the perimeter. Enough space to breathe, but not so much that it rattles around.
The finishing philosophy here is exactly right. Boxes get handled constantly, so you want something that feels good in your hands while still protecting the wood. Over-finishing a tactile piece like this defeats the purpose entirely.