This tip was shared by Jodee from Inspire Woodcraft. It covers two simple methods to make your own sacrificial fence—an upgrade that can improve cut accuracy while protecting your table saw’s factory fence.
A sacrificial fence is a shop-made attachment that allows cuts close to the blade without damaging your main fence. It’s especially useful for joinery work, picture frame trimming, or any job that benefits from clean, close-proximity cuts.
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What Is a Sacrificial Fence?
A sacrificial fence is a removable fence that mounts to your existing table saw fence. It acts as a buffer between your blade and your main gear, protecting your stock fence from wear, cuts, and burns.
It’s particularly helpful when working with dado stacks or making rabbets and tenons. Since the fence can be cut into as needed, it removes the worry of damaging your factory fence or needing to be overly precise with every setup.
Why Add One to Your Setup?
Beyond protection, sacrificial fences offer flexibility. You can customize their height and thickness depending on the project. They also help reduce tear-out and make it easier to repeat precision cuts.
If you’re trimming down thin or awkward stock—like delicate frame moldings—a sacrificial fence provides better control and alignment. Over time, this upgrade saves both material and frustration.
Method 1: Dovetail Clamp Setup
The first method uses dovetail clamps, specifically from Micro Jig. These clamps slide into dovetail grooves cut into MDF and allow quick attachment and removal without screws or glue.
To build this version:
Cut a strip of MDF to match the height and length of your table saw fence. It doesn’t have to be thick—3/4-inch MDF works well.
Use a router table to cut a dovetail groove about 3/8-inch deep into the MDF. These grooves should be placed roughly a quarter of the way in from each end.
To install the fence, place a folded piece of paper next to your table saw fence. This raises the MDF slightly and helps align the setup cleanly.
Face the dovetail grooves away from the blade, then press the MDF against the main fence. Secure it using the dovetail clamps. Once in place, raise the blade just high enough to shave the MDF surface during your first cut.
This method offers excellent speed and adjustability. However, the clamps cost around $45, so it’s more of an investment. Still, they can be used with a variety of jigs and fixtures throughout your shop, making them worth it if you do repeat work.
Method 2: F-Style Clamp Approach
If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly solution, Jodee also shares a method using standard F-style clamps. This version takes a little longer to build but offers the same functionality at a lower cost.
To begin:
Cut two identical MDF strips the same size as in Method 1. These form the outer faces of the sacrificial fence.
Add a few hardwood spacer blocks between the MDF layers, spacing them about 1.5 inches apart. These act as the internal support.
Screw the MDF and spacers together using countersunk screws. Be sure to position screws where they won’t accidentally intersect with the saw blade during a cut.
Clamp the entire sandwich assembly to your table saw fence using standard F-style clamps.
The benefit of this method is that it’s easy to modify or replace the MDF as it wears out. Since no glue is used, you can disassemble the fence at any time and replace damaged sections without starting over.
Which Option Is Best?
Both options offer solid performance—it just depends on your needs. The dovetail clamp method is faster and more elegant, especially if you’re adjusting fences often. The F-style clamp method is better for woodworkers on a budget or anyone just getting started with shop upgrades.
Jodee emphasizes that neither method requires high-end tools. A router for dovetail grooves or a simple drill for countersinks is all you need to get started. Either approach is manageable for beginner woodworkers and offers long-term value in the shop.
Extra Uses for Sacrificial Fences
Besides protecting your main fence, sacrificial fences help with specialty cuts. If you’re using a dado blade, trimming tenons, or making rabbets, these fences keep your work clean while minimizing blade exposure.
They also allow you to raise the blade partially into the fence—useful when creating grooves or notches on the edge of a board. And since they’re replaceable, you don’t have to worry about cutting into them during setup.
Final Thoughts
Whether you choose the dovetail clamp route or go with a basic F-style clamping method, a sacrificial fence is a valuable addition to any table saw setup. It adds protection, versatility, and repeatable accuracy to your workflow.
This tip was shared by Jodee from Inspire Woodcraft. If you want to see both methods in action, including tools, measurements, and shop-tested insights, check out the full video below.
Support Jodee by visiting his online store here: https://inspirewoodcraft.com/collections/all.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
This is one of those upgrades that really changes how comfortable you feel pushing cuts to the limit on the table saw. I’ve always been a bit cautious about getting too close to my factory fence with the blade, especially when dialing in joinery cuts or trimming down small pieces. Having that buffer zone lets you focus on the cut instead of worrying about nicking your expensive fence.
The dovetail clamp approach is slick if you’re already invested in that ecosystem of jigs and fixtures. Those Micro Jig clamps are pricey up front, but they’re solid and you’ll find yourself using them for way more than just sacrificial fences. The F-style clamp method is perfect for getting your feet wet—most of us have those clamps lying around anyway, and MDF is cheap enough that you can experiment with different heights and configurations.
One thing I really appreciate about both setups is how they handle that first “kiss” cut with the blade. That moment when you raise the blade just enough to shave the MDF creates the perfect zero-clearance reference. It’s especially helpful when you’re working with thin stock or doing precision work where every thousandth counts. Plus, when the fence gets beat up from repeated cuts, you’re just replacing a $5 piece of MDF instead of worrying about your main fence.