Jodee from Inspire Woodcraft shared the woodworking tip featured in this video.
The video walks through climb cutting on a router table—an approach most sources warn against—and shows how to use it carefully to save workpieces prone to tear-out.
Jodee demonstrates the technique on curved ash shelves and explains when climb cutting reduces tear-out compared with conventional routing.
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What is climb cutting?
Climb cutting feeds the workpiece in the same direction as the spinning cutter, which is the opposite of conventional routing practice. This reverses the forces at the cutting edge and changes how the cutter engages the grain.
Why use climb cutting?
The primary advantage is reduced tear-out when the grain changes direction, especially on curves or pieces with inconsistent grain.
By cutting the material ahead of the cutter, climb cutting prevents the cutter from lifting and tearing fibers as it exits the cut.
Risks and precautions
Climb cutting can be self-feeding and may pull the workpiece free of the operator’s hands, creating a hazard at the router table.
Acceptable use depends on controlling those forces with technique and appropriate safeguards.
- Take shallow passes so the cutter removes only a little material at a time.
- Limit climb cutting to sections where grain direction would otherwise cause tear-out.
- Use larger workpieces and maintain a secure grip; avoid climb cutting small pieces.
- Employ push pads or similar rubber grips (grout floats are a popular, effective option) to keep hands away from the cutter.
Setup and recommended technique
Make the same profile passes across all pieces, then raise the bit slightly and repeat until reaching the final height to keep each pass light and predictable.
Guide the material rather than forcing it—think of the stock on a leash and maintain a steady, controlled feed rate.
When to avoid climb cutting
Do not use climb cutting if the operator is uncomfortable or on small, hard-to-control parts where loss of grip is likely. For most routine cuts with straight grain, conventional routing remains the safer, preferred method.
Adapting the technique
Climb cutting is most useful on tear-out-prone species like ash and oak or on complex curved profiles where grain direction reverses.
The approach can be adapted to different profiles by using shallow passes, appropriate push pads, and treating climb cutting as a targeted rescue technique rather than a default method.
Climb cutting on a router table is risky but, when used sparingly and with the precautions shown, it can save parts that would otherwise suffer severe tear-out.
Jodee’s method emphasizes conservative passes, secure grips, and selective application to keep the technique as safe as possible.
Support Jodee by visiting his online store here: https://inspirewoodcraft.com/collections/all.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
Climb cutting is one of those techniques that sits in the “advanced skills” category for good reason. The self-feeding nature of the cut means the router wants to grab your workpiece and accelerate it through the cut, which can happen fast enough to surprise you. I appreciate how Jodee emphasizes the shallow passes—this is really the key to keeping things manageable.
The grout float tip is solid gold. Those rubber pads give you way more control than trying to grip smooth wood directly, and they keep your hands positioned safely. I’d add that having your router table fence properly set up becomes even more critical with climb cuts since you’re relying on it to help control the workpiece’s path.
For anyone considering this technique, practice on scrap first and really get a feel for how the forces change compared to conventional routing. Start with the most conservative setup possible—large workpiece, minimal depth of cut, and perfect lighting so you can see exactly what’s happening. The moment something feels off, back out and reassess.
While climb cutting can definitely save pieces with tricky grain, remember that sometimes the better solution is adjusting your conventional technique—like taking lighter passes, using a spiral bit, or even hand-sanding the problem areas. Climb cutting should be a targeted rescue technique, not a go-to method.