Jon Peters from Longview Woodworking shared the woodworking tip featured in this video.
Jon walks through his process for refinishing an outdoor mahogany table that has held up for years against the elements. Along the way, he shares a clever method for keeping brushes and paint trays fresh between coats, along with his approach to layering spar varnish for a smooth, professional finish without brush marks.
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Keeping Brushes Fresh Between Coats
One of the biggest annoyances with oil-based finishes is that brushes are difficult to clean and can’t simply be wrapped in plastic and reused the next day like water-based paints allow. Jon solved this problem with a simple trick using a plastic cup, a slit cut into the lid for the brush handle, and a can of heavier-than-air gas sprayed inside.
The gas settles over the paint and brush, displacing the oxygen that would otherwise cause the finish to skin over or the bristles to harden. Jon reports that a brush treated this way stayed usable for several days, even after sitting untouched over a weekend.
This same idea works for paint trays as well. By lining a tray with foil, poking a small hole, and spraying the inert gas inside, the roller and remaining paint stay wet and ready to use without drying out.
Choosing the Right Brush and Roller
Jon prefers an inexpensive natural bristle brush over synthetic options. Natural bristles lay the finish down smoothly, while polyester brushes tend to drag the material and leave more visible brush marks and streaking.
For flat surfaces like tabletops, he likes to apply the finish with a foam or mohair roller and then tip it off with long strokes following the wood grain. This combination gives a level coat while minimizing lap marks.
Prepping the Surface
Before any finish goes on, Jon lightly sands the entire piece with a fine grit paper. This step is easy to overlook, but it’s essential for getting a clean bond between coats and removing any raised grain or old finish inconsistencies.
He also only pours the amount of finish he expects to use into a working cup rather than dipping directly from the can. This keeps the remaining product in the original container free from oxygen exposure and contamination.
Application and Layering Strategy
Jon punches a few small holes in the rim of the can before pouring so that any drips fall back into the container instead of pooling in the lip. He also wears gloves and uses a respirator, since the fumes from this type of finish are strong.
For UV and weather protection, Jon recommends starting with a few coats of a glossy spar varnish, even if the final look is meant to be satin. The gloss formula offers better protection from sun and moisture, and a satin topcoat can be applied over it once that protective base is built up.
Each coat is left to dry overnight, followed by a light sanding before the next layer goes on. This patient, repeated process is what gives outdoor pieces their long-term durability.
Why This Matters for Outdoor Furniture
The table featured in this video has spent roughly four years outside in rain, wind, and snow, and it still looks great with regular upkeep. Jon points out that all outdoor materials require some maintenance, not just wood, using the surrounding brick patio as an example of ongoing care.
Jon also addresses criticism he receives for using pocket hole joinery on outdoor furniture like this table. In his experience, the joinery has never failed, and the finish plays just as large a role in a project’s longevity as the construction method itself.
These small habits, from oxygen-displacing gas tricks to layering gloss beneath satin, add up to significant savings in time, materials, and frustration for anyone finishing outdoor woodwork.
See Jon’s plans here: https://jonpeters.com/products/japanese-coffee-table-design-plans
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
That inert gas trick for keeping brushes alive is one of those things that seems like a small hack but actually saves real money over time. Natural bristle brushes for oil-based finishes aren’t cheap, and neither is spar varnish, so anything that lets you stretch both across multiple sessions is worth having in your back pocket. If you don’t have the specialty gas cans on hand, some folks get similar results by pressing plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the finish to limit air contact, though it’s not quite as effective as fully displacing the oxygen.
The gloss-before-satin approach for outdoor pieces is solid material science. Gloss finishes generally have a higher resin content, which is where a lot of the UV and moisture resistance comes from. Satin and matte finishes achieve that duller sheen by adding flatting agents, which slightly dilute that protective resin layer. Building your protection first with gloss coats and saving the look you want for the final layer is a smart way to get both durability and aesthetics out of the same can of finish.
Worth mentioning too: always work with solvent-based finishes like spar varnish in a well-ventilated area, and a respirator rated for organic vapors is a good call, not just a nice-to-have. Oil-based fumes can build up fast in an enclosed shop. And on the pocket hole debate, joinery choice matters less outdoors than people think when the finish is doing its job. Moisture intrusion is what kills outdoor furniture, so keeping end grain and joints well sealed matters just as much as how the pieces are connected.