This tip was shared by Jodee from Inspire Woodcraft. It’s a simple but clever method for cutting precise, blade-width splines at the table saw—no measuring required.
Splines are a great way to strengthen miter joints and add a visual element to frames, boxes, and other small projects. Jodee’s technique takes the guesswork out of fitting them, saving time and improving accuracy.
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Why Splines Matter in Joinery
Splines add structural support by increasing the glue surface area at a miter joint. They’re commonly used in picture frames and small boxes to reinforce delicate corners without bulky hardware or fasteners.
Visually, splines can be contrasting or matching in color, adding a decorative line to your project. But to be effective and clean-looking, they need to fit tight—and that’s where this tip comes in.
The No-Measure Approach
The entire method is based on using the blade’s kerf (cut width) as your guide. Rather than reaching for calipers or setting up a jig, you can cut both the spline groove and the spline material using the same blade setup.
This makes the process faster, especially if you’re making several identical joints. And because you never move the fence between cuts, alignment stays consistent from start to finish.
Material Selection
Jodee uses a piece of walnut for the demonstration—strong, stable, and attractive. Any hardwood will work as long as it’s dense enough not to break under pressure.
The main piece of advice here is to choose a species that complements or contrasts with your project, depending on the effect you want. Walnut pairs well with maple or cherry, and the spline will stand out nicely against lighter woods.
Setup at the Table Saw
Start by installing a flat-top saw blade—this produces a square-bottomed groove, which is ideal for spline joints. Blades with alternating bevels can leave a jagged or peaked bottom that doesn’t seat splines as cleanly.
Set your fence to the desired groove position and cut the first strip. Leave the fence in place throughout the process so every piece matches exactly.
Making the Cuts
Cut your first workpiece and keep it nearby. Without adjusting anything, cut a second strip of the same width from the same stock. This ensures that both pieces are identical in thickness, thanks to the blade’s kerf determining the width.
Next, flip one of the offcuts over and use it to cut the spline groove. The fit will be exact because the spline material and the groove were both cut with the same setup.
Testing the Fit
The spline should slide into the groove snugly, with just a little friction. If it slips in too easily or binds up, something’s off with the blade or the material thickness.
The beauty of this method is how little sanding or trimming is needed afterward. The spline fits tight and square, making glue-ups simpler and more secure.
Additional Options
While this method is ideal for blade-width splines, some woodworkers may still prefer crosscut sleds or miter gauges for longer pieces or angled splines. Jodee’s approach, though, is perfect for quick setups and repeatable results.
If you’re doing several splines in a row, you can create a stockpile of matching spline strips and grooves with minimal adjustment. That’s especially helpful when batch-building items like keepsake boxes or small frames.
Why This Tip Works
- Speed: No measuring, no jig setup, no second-guessing angles or width.
- Precision: The blade determines the groove, and the cut-off piece becomes the spline.
- Efficiency: One setup yields both groove and spline, reducing waste and extra milling.
Final Thoughts
This table saw tip is a great addition to your joinery skills. It’s fast, repeatable, and accurate—perfect for both quick projects and fine woodworking pieces.
Jodee shows how small tricks like this can make a big difference in your shop workflow. Once you’ve tried it on some scrap wood, you’ll probably find yourself using this method again and again.
Support Jodee by visiting his online store here: https://inspirewoodcraft.com/collections/all.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
This is one of those simple techniques that feels obvious once you see it, but it’s genuinely clever. Using the blade’s kerf as your measurement eliminates so many variables — no calipers, no test fits, no tweaking the fence back and forth. The spline material and groove are cut with identical setups, so they’re guaranteed to match.
Safety-wise, keep your push sticks handy when cutting those thin spline strips. Small offcuts can get grabby near the blade, and you want your fingers well clear. A zero-clearance insert helps too, preventing thin pieces from dropping into the throat plate gap. If you’re cutting a lot of splines, consider making a simple push block that fits over the workpiece.
The flat-top blade recommendation is spot-on. Those alternating tooth bevels on combination blades can leave a slightly V-shaped groove bottom, which means your spline won’t sit flush. You’ll get much cleaner joints with a blade that cuts straight across. And while walnut looks great for contrast splines, don’t overlook using the same species as your project for a more subtle reinforcement line.
This technique really shines when you’re doing multiple identical pieces. Set it up once, and you can knock out matching splines and grooves all day long. It’s the kind of shop efficiency that makes production work much more enjoyable.