This technique comes from Jon Peters of Longview Woodworking.
In this video, Jon walks through a simple yet effective way to achieve tight inside miters when working with flat panels and molding—particularly when factory-finished faces need to be preserved.
The process helps avoid blade marks, sanding headaches, and visual imperfections, all while producing snug, square joints on detailed trim. It’s a small shop adjustment that can make a big difference.
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Why This Technique Works
When cutting shallow miters for cabinet doors or trim, burn marks and rough saw lines often show up on the visible face. These blemishes usually force extra sanding and can remove a clean factory finish.
Jon’s method avoids that problem by repositioning the workpiece after profiling. The blade-marked face becomes the reference surface for a second rip cut, leaving the front untouched and factory-fresh. This keeps the outer edges crisp while ensuring the miter closes tightly inside the joint.
Applying the Trick to a Real Project
The technique is demonstrated during a cabinet build that includes flat panel doors and decorative trim. Jon applies narrow molding around recessed panels and uses crown along the top, both requiring accurate miter fits.
While prepping the trim, Jon leaves the pieces slightly oversized. Once the miter profile is cut, he flips the piece so the burn-marked face rides along the saw table. Then he rips a clean edge on the back—one that’s square and true—creating a consistent registration face for fitting.
Breaking Down the Cut Sequence
To follow Jon’s steps:
- Rip the molding slightly oversize before cutting the decorative profile.
- After profiling, flip the molding so the rough edge is down.
- Make a cleanup rip to create a square back edge while leaving the front finish untouched.
- Use that square edge to register against the cabinet face or door frame for a clean, tight joint.
This not only saves time later on, but also results in better-looking trim. Since only the rear face is adjusted, the visible front remains consistent across all pieces.
Cutting Accurate Miters with a Sacrificial Fence
Jon uses a miter saw fitted with a sacrificial fence, which leaves a visible kerf line where the blade meets the molding. This helps line up cuts precisely when trimming angles around inset panels.
To make a corner joint, he first cuts one piece to length and installs it. Then he marks the mating piece directly off the installed one using the sharp inside point of the miter, transferring that mark to the side and aligning it with the blade path.
This system improves accuracy, especially when dealing with narrow or delicate trim pieces.
Introducing the “Bump Cut” for Perfect Fit
If a miter is close but not quite closing, Jon uses a method known as the bump cut. With the saw blade in the down position, he gently pushes the molding into the blade teeth. Then, raising the saw and bringing it down again, the blade skims off a tiny sliver of material.
This controlled cut shaves off just enough to close the joint without affecting the visible surface. It’s a subtle adjustment but extremely useful for dialing in the final fit.
Why the Bump Cut Helps
The technique works because the teeth of the saw blade extend slightly from the arbor, allowing them to remove a sliver of material when pressed against. It’s a time-tested method that:
- Keeps the visible face untouched
- Allows for small, precise corrections
- Avoids the need for sanding or re-cutting the piece
It’s especially helpful when working on cabinets or doors where every joint needs to look clean and intentional.
Important Safety Notes
Although the bump cut is effective, it requires careful handling. Always ensure your hands are clear of the blade, and use clamps or a firm two-hand grip for stability.
Make sure the saw is off before pressing material into the blade, and check that the bevel and miter locks are tightened before applying pressure. Using a sacrificial fence provides a safe reference surface and protects against tear-out.
Installing the Trim
Once all the miters are tuned, Jon secures each piece with glue and brads. He sometimes makes extra pieces in advance to allow for mistakes or tight fitting.
After the trim is installed, final sanding and finish prep can begin. In his project, Jon adds crown molding and prepares the doors to receive metal grills, which he plans to cover in a separate video.
A Practical Tip Worth Using
Jon’s approach blends careful preparation with traditional shop technique. The simple idea of flipping the molding and trimming the back—not the front—makes a big difference in final appearance.
By keeping the finished face clean and relying on smart rip cuts, Jon saves time while achieving high-quality results. It’s a great lesson in working smarter, not harder, and in preserving the look of factory-trimmed material.
Watch the full video and subscribe to Jon’s channel: