Clinton from Specific Love Creations shared the woodworking tip featured in this video.
Drill bits might seem like a simple tool, but choosing the wrong type can make a huge difference in the quality of a finished project. Clinton breaks down the most common drill bit styles, explaining what each one is designed for and sharing practical tips to get cleaner, more accurate results from every type.
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Standard Twist Bits
The standard twist bit is the most common type found in nearly every home toolbox. It works well on wood, soft metals, and plastics, but its pointed tip can wander before it bites into the material.
Clinton recommends creating a small starting divot with an awl or by pressing the bit gently into the surface by hand before drilling. This gives the bit a guide so it enters exactly where intended instead of skating across the surface.
For larger holes, he suggests drilling a smaller pilot hole first so the larger bit has something to follow. This reduces tearout and keeps the hole straight.
When drilling deep holes, a light pecking motion—moving the bit in and out repeatedly—helps clear shavings from the flutes and prevents heat buildup. Backer boards are also useful to prevent blowout on the exit side, and drilling speed should be adjusted based on the hardness of the material, slowing down for harder woods or metal.
Step Bits
Step bits feature multiple diameters built into a single tool, making them useful for thin sheet metal, aluminum, and plastic without needing to swap bits mid-project. However, they do have limitations with thicker materials.
Because the jump between steps is relatively small, a bit can bind if the material is too thick. Clinton suggests wrapping tape around the diameter needed as a visual stopping guide, since it’s easy to overshoot the intended hole size.
Lubricant helps reduce the friction generated by the bit’s large surface area when working with metal. Running the bit gently into the next step after reaching the target size also helps clean up burrs without needing a separate deburring tool.
A slower speed and light pressure go a long way with this bit style, letting the tool do the cutting rather than forcing it through the material.
Brad Point Bits
Brad point bits are built specifically for woodworking and feature a center spur that prevents slipping, along with outer edges angled to cut from the outside in for a cleaner entry hole.
Using the center point like an awl helps lock the bit onto the exact mark before drilling begins. A backer board is still important here, since this bit excels at clean entry but can cause tearout on the exit side.
When measuring depth, Clinton emphasizes measuring from the outer edge of the bit rather than the center spur, which is a common and easy mistake. Running the bit at a higher speed allows the outer edges to cut cleanly rather than catching and tearing the wood.
These bits should be reserved strictly for wood—using them on metal or masonry will dull them quickly.
Spade Bits
Spade bits, sometimes called paddle bits, are built for speed rather than a clean finish. They’re common in framing and construction work where holes need to be drilled quickly for wiring or plumbing.
Running the bit at full speed before applying pressure helps it bite in smoothly. Because these bits generate a lot of torque, especially in thick lumber, holding the drill with both hands—or using an auxiliary handle—helps prevent wrist injury if the bit catches.
Clinton points out the difference between flat-tipped and spiral-tipped spade bits, noting that the spiral tip grabs more aggressively while the flat tip offers more control. Since these bits lack flutes for chip clearance, pulling the bit out periodically to clear debris prevents heat buildup.
One advantage of spade bits is how easy they are to resharpen with a simple file, extending their usable life without needing a replacement.
Forstner Bits
Forstner bits are ideal for clean, flat-bottomed holes and are a favorite among cabinet makers for hinges, dowels, and other precise joinery work. They come in a wide range of sizes.
Because of their large surface contact, these bits generate significant heat, so a slower speed and moderate pressure are essential. A drill press offers more control than a handheld drill, since even slight misalignment can cause the bit to bind or wander.
These bits produce a large volume of thick shavings quickly, so pulling the bit out frequently to clear debris keeps the cut clean and prevents overheating. One major benefit is their ability to create overlapping holes, which is especially useful for removing large amounts of material for mortise and tenon joints.
As with brad point bits, always measure depth from the outer edge rather than the center point to avoid inaccurate results.
Auger Bits
Auger bits are built for drilling deep holes in thick lumber, often used in framing and timber work. Their threaded tip pulls the bit into the material, while large flutes help clear away wood efficiently.
Because the threads self-feed, Clinton warns against applying too much pressure from behind, which can damage the wood and interfere with the bit’s natural feeding action. These bits also generate strong torque, so a side handle or a firm two-handed grip is recommended.
When removing the bit from a hole, reversing the rotation rather than pulling straight out helps protect the wood fibers. In wet or damp wood, shavings can clog the flutes more easily, so clearing them periodically prevents overheating.
Masonry Bits
Masonry bits typically feature a carbide tip designed to break through brick, stone, and concrete rather than simply cutting through it. They are not intended for wood and won’t produce a clean hole if used that way.
A hammer drill is essential for these bits to work properly, since the pounding action helps fracture the material as the bit spins. Clinton notes the difference between a true hammer drill and an impact driver, which rotates rather than strikes.
Pulling the bit out every so often clears out dust that builds up in the flutes, preventing overheating. Excess pressure isn’t necessary, since the hammering action does most of the work.
For dense or old concrete, keeping a cup of water nearby to cool the bit periodically can prevent damage from excess heat. When setting concrete anchors, marking the bit at the correct depth helps avoid drilling too deep and losing the anchor inside the hole.
Tile and Glass Bits
These specialty bits, often featuring a spade-shaped or diamond-coated cylindrical tip, are designed to cut brittle materials like tile and glass without cracking them.
Keeping the area wet is critical, whether by continuously pouring water over the drilling spot or building a small dam with plumber’s putty to keep the bit submerged. Painter’s tape placed at the drilling location adds grip and prevents the bit from wandering on a slick, glazed surface.
Unlike masonry bits, these should only be used in a standard rotary mode—never with a hammer function, which can shatter the material. Starting at an angle and slowly working the bit upright, once a small notch has formed, helps establish a stable starting point.
Exiting the back of the material is the most common point for cracking, so letting the weight of the drill do the work rather than applying pressure helps the bit finish cleanly.
Countersink Bits
While not technically a drilling bit on its own, the countersink is used alongside standard bits to create a small recess so a screw head sits flush with the surface. Some versions come as a separate attachment, while others include a built-in drill bit for drilling and countersinking in a single step.
Choosing the Right Bit for the Job
With so many drill bit styles available, understanding the strengths and limitations of each one makes a noticeable difference in the quality of finished work. Clinton’s rundown offers a practical reference for matching the right bit to the right material, along with simple techniques to avoid common mistakes like tearout, overheating, and binding.
Taking the time to use the correct bit—and applying a few of these small adjustments—can save both time and materials in the long run.
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Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
Clinton covers a ton of ground here, and honestly this is the kind of breakdown I wish I had when I was starting out. Drill bits are one of those things that seem interchangeable until you’re fighting a blown-out hole or a bit that won’t stop wandering. A few of these tips are worth keeping in your back pocket no matter what kind of project you’re working on.
The brad point section is a good one to pay attention to if you’re doing any kind of furniture or cabinet work. That center spur makes a real difference in hole placement accuracy, and once you get used to drilling with them, going back to standard twist bits for wood feels like a step backward. I’d also add that keeping a dedicated set of brad points just for wood—and never letting them touch metal or masonry—will keep them sharp for years.
On the safety side, the torque warnings for spade and auger bits are worth taking seriously. A bit that catches in thick lumber can twist a wrist or knock you off balance before you even realize what’s happening. If your drill has a side handle, use it. It’s an extra few seconds that can save you from a nasty sprain.
For the Forstner bit section, I’ll add that a sacrificial spoil board clamped underneath your workpiece is just as important as a backer on the exit side. It keeps your bench from taking the hit and gives you a cleaner reference surface for repeat holes. Good stuff all around here from Clinton.