This project was built and designed by Mike Montgomery from Modern Builds. It’s a sleek and durable outdoor bench made entirely from 2x4s, using a box joint-style layout for strength and a modern look.
Mike takes a clean, practical approach to this build, showing how simple construction techniques and thoughtful detailing can lead to a standout piece of outdoor furniture. The bench is designed to handle the elements and look great doing it.
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Why This Bench Stands Out
The defining feature of this design is the box joint-style stacking of 2x4s, which creates a sturdy frame and a bold visual pattern. Originally conceived by DIY Candy, Mike adapted the idea and brought it to life in video format so more people could follow along.
The use of common lumber and straightforward tools makes this an approachable project, while the design gives it a polished, professional finish. It’s a great way to build something impressive with basic materials.
Preparing the 2x4s
The build starts with cutting all of the 2x4s to the correct lengths. Mike recommends using a stop block to make repeat cuts faster and more accurate, especially since the bench requires many identical pieces.
Since construction lumber usually has rounded edges, the 2x4s are trimmed on the table saw to square off the edges. This step is optional but highly recommended—it ensures cleaner joints and a tighter final assembly.
Assembling the Structure
Mike tackles the build section by section, beginning with the legs. Assembling one part at a time helps with alignment and keeps the project manageable, especially during glue-up.
By building outward from the legs, he’s able to lock in the geometry of the bench and avoid cumulative errors. This strategy also makes it easier to clamp parts in place as the glue sets.
Glue and Fasteners for Durability
For the adhesive, Mike uses Titebond III—an outdoor-rated waterproof wood glue. It’s strong enough for long-term outdoor use and cures quickly with good clamping pressure.
To hold the parts in place during glue-up, he uses finish nails. These act like clamps, keeping the boards aligned until the glue dries, which is particularly useful when working alone or on larger pieces.
Sanding and Surface Prep
Once the structure is fully assembled, it’s time for sanding. Mike recommends using a belt sander due to the amount of surface area involved. A palm sander would take too long and might not achieve the flatness needed for the final look.
This is a messy step, so Mike also reminds viewers to wear a respirator when sanding this much exposed wood. A dust mask or respirator helps protect against fine particles kicked up by aggressive sanding.
Leveling the Legs for Outdoor Use
The bench includes adjustable metal feet at the bottom of each leg, allowing it to sit level even on uneven ground. This small but important feature improves usability and protects the bench from moisture.
Keeping the wood elevated also increases the lifespan of the bench by reducing prolonged contact with wet surfaces like grass or pavers.
Applying Finish and Sealant
After sanding, Mike applies a coat of dark walnut Danish oil to enhance the color and grain of the wood. This also adds a bit of initial water resistance and deepens the tone.
For added protection, Thompson’s WaterSeal is applied over the Danish oil. This final coat helps repel water and prevent damage from the elements. The combination gives the bench both aesthetic appeal and long-term durability.
A Stylish and Functional Outdoor Upgrade
The finished bench is clean, minimal, and surprisingly strong thanks to its layered design and box joint-style construction. It’s a practical piece that adds value to any backyard, patio, or front porch.
Mike’s methodical approach and clear explanation make the project approachable without sacrificing quality. It’s a great build for anyone looking to elevate their outdoor furniture setup while practicing key woodworking techniques.
Please support Mike by visiting his website: https://www.modernbuilds.com/.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
The box joint approach Mike uses here is really clever for outdoor furniture. That stacked 2×4 design isn’t just about looks — it creates multiple glue surfaces that distribute stress much better than traditional butt joints. When you’re dealing with seasonal wood movement and weather exposure, having that kind of structural redundancy makes a real difference in longevity.
I’m a big fan of his choice to square up those 2×4 edges on the table saw. Construction lumber can vary quite a bit in quality, and those rounded factory edges rarely give you the tight fit you want for exposed joinery. Taking that extra step transforms the whole look from “construction grade” to “furniture grade” without adding much time to the build.
The Titebond III and Thompson’s combination is solid for outdoor projects. That Danish oil middle step is smart too — it gives the sealer something to grip onto while adding some color depth. Just remember to let each coat fully cure before applying the next one. Rushing the finish schedule is usually where outdoor projects fail down the road.