This project was built and designed by Jon Peters of Longview Woodworking.
This build shows a clean mid-century modern end table veneered in quarter-cut walnut with two drawers and a subtle waterfall edge, designed to be approachable for a home shop.
The project focuses on veneer layout, simple cabinet construction, pocket-hole drawers, and a solid-wood trim that elevates plywood construction into a refined piece.
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Design
The table leans on mid-century proportions: clean faces, minimal reveals, and a thin solid-wood trim that reads like a deliberate frame.
The waterfall veneer on the front and sides is a signature detail that makes the plywood box feel like fine furniture.
Jon keeps the aesthetic simple so the grain and edges do the work, which makes the design easy to adapt to different sizes or wood species while retaining the same visual language.
Veneering & Grain Matching
Veneer is laid out and cut before assembly so the inside faces that will be visible are already finished, a small workflow change that simplifies trimming and ensures clean wraps. Critical pieces—left, top, and right—are marked and cut first to get a continuous waterfall match across the front corner.
For adhesion, a two-coat contact cement approach is used to get a reliable bond; pressure-sensitive (PSA) veneer is mentioned as an alternative for the second table and can speed the process for those who prefer a sticker-like application.
Labeling, test cuts, and a sacrificial backing board make the layout repeatable and predictable.
Cabinet Construction & Edge Banding
The cabinet box is basic plywood construction with the emphasis on tight, flush joins at the top and back, and a simple bottom that doubles as a drawer runner and stop. Jon trims the exposed plywood edge with a solid walnut molding milled to match the cabinet thickness for a refined, consistent profile.
A small mockup or jig helps visualize reveals and drawer alignment before permanently installing the bottom or runners, which speeds final adjustments and reduces rework.
Drawer Build (Pocket-Hole Method)
Drawers are assembled using pocket holes for a quick, strong joint that stays accessible in a small shop. Grooves are cut for the drawer bottoms with iterative fence adjustments and test pieces to ensure a snug fit without overcutting.
Drawer fronts get a choice of edge treatments: iron-on banding or a narrow quarter-inch solid molding. The molding gives a cleaner look but requires planning the front’s final width slightly smaller to account for the added profile.
Finishing & Final Assembly
The project is finished with multiple thin coats of satin lacquer, sanding between coats for a smooth, even surface that protects the veneer and solid trim. Predrilled and countersunk holes behind the drawer fronts preserve clean faces when installing knobs or pulls.
Small jigs and shims are used at assembly to maintain even reveals between drawers, and a simple drilling jig ensures consistent hardware placement during the final install.
Lessons and Takeaways
Small setup steps—labeling veneer, mockups for reveals, and jigging hardware—save time and prevent common mistakes that cost more to fix than the initial care requires. Veneering before assembly is a practical tip when interior faces will remain visible in the finished piece.
The techniques shown are adaptable: veneer wrapping can be scaled to larger cabinets, pocket-hole drawer construction is approachable for beginners, and the trim approach turns economical plywood into furniture-grade work.
Get Jon’s plans here: https://jonpeters.com/products/walnut-end-table-plans.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
Veneer work like this really shows how paying attention to grain direction can make or break a project. That waterfall effect where the grain flows continuously around the corner is what separates furniture from boxes — it takes some planning, but the payoff is huge. When you’re laying out veneer, always cut your show faces first and work outward from there.
The contact cement approach is solid for veneer work, especially on vertical surfaces where you need that instant grab. Just remember to let both surfaces get properly tacky before joining — once they touch, you’re committed. Having a sharp veneer knife and taking your time with the cuts will save you headaches later when everything needs to line up perfectly.
I appreciate how Jon keeps the joinery simple but effective. Pocket holes get a bad rap sometimes, but for drawer construction in a cabinet like this where they won’t be seen, they’re fast and strong. The key is getting your pocket hole jig set up correctly for your material thickness — a few test pieces on scrap will dial it in perfectly.
That solid wood trim detail is what really elevates this build. It’s a clever way to hide plywood edges while adding visual weight to the piece. Taking the time to mill it to exactly match your plywood thickness makes all the difference in getting those clean, flush reveals that make the whole thing look intentional.