This project was built and designed by Jon Peters from Longview Woodworking.
Jon set out to build a long hive, a horizontal beekeeping design that spreads frames across a single comfortable working height instead of stacking boxes vertically. The goal was to make hive inspections and maintenance easier while giving the bees a spacious, single-level home. Starting with basic dimensional lumber, Jon walks through the entire process of designing and constructing this alternative hive style, including plans he offers for anyone wanting to build their own.
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Design and Full-Scale Layout
Before cutting any lumber, Jon created a full-scale drawing of the front and back panels to map out exactly where the frame rest, inner cover groove, and bottom panel groove needed to sit. This approach let him visualize the joinery before committing to any cuts, which is a smart habit for anyone working on a project without a fixed set of plans already memorized.
The hive was designed to hold a large number of frames arranged horizontally rather than in stacked boxes. Jon specifically built this version for medium-depth frames since that’s what he uses in his own beekeeping operation, but he also created plans for deep frames so builders can choose whichever size fits their setup.
Cutting the Front and Back Panels
Jon started with construction lumber, rough-cutting boards for the front, back, and side panels to length. He then trimmed the rounded edges off each board to create clean, square edges on the top and bottom, which is important for both appearance and for getting tight-fitting joinery later on.
With the full-scale drawing as a reference, Jon set up his table saw fence and made a series of stacked dado cuts to form the grooves for the frame rests, the inner cover, and the bottom panel. He worked through each cut methodically, lowering the blade slightly for each pass and adjusting the fence between cuts until all the grooves lined up correctly on both the front and back panels.
Assembly and Joinery
Once the panels were cut to length, Jon drilled a few entrance holes on the sides of the hive, sizing them so they could later be plugged if needed. He also added pocket holes throughout the assembly, reasoning that cross-grain screw connections aren’t as strong as long-grain ones, so a mix of pocket screws and traditional face screws gave the box better overall strength.
Glue and screws held the box together, with pocket holes filled afterward. Jon noted that filling these holes wasn’t just about appearance — leaving gaps unfilled could give hive beetles and other pests places to hide inside the hive.
Base and Legs
The base of the hive was built from finished plywood. Jon sanded off the factory finish just to be cautious about any coatings that might affect the bees or their honey, even though he wasn’t certain it would actually cause a problem.
For the legs, Jon used dimensional lumber and cut a slight angle at the top and bottom of each leg so they would flare outward from the hive body. He used a chamfer bit to soften the top edge of each leg and relied on a plywood spacer to keep leg placement consistent, securing each one with screws and glue for a sturdy connection.
Building the Roof and Inner Cover
For the roof, Jon again started with a full-scale drawing to work out the angles before cutting any lumber. Using an angle finder and straightedge, he transferred his measurements directly onto the workpieces and cut the roof’s front and back angled pieces on the table saw with a tapering jig.
Inside the roof, Jon installed thin wood strips to create a ledge for mounting the inner cover, which he built from plywood scraps he already had on hand rather than buying new material. He also added foam insulation inside the roof cavity, piecing together scraps to cover the full area, then secured everything with thin wood pieces before capping the roof with a final plywood layer and evenly spaced screws.
Finishing Touches and Installing the Hive
Jon attached the roof to the hive body using several large hinges, along with a support brace to hold the roof open safely while working inside the hive. The inner cover was split into multiple smaller sections rather than one solid piece, allowing access to just one portion of the hive at a time instead of exposing the entire colony.
After filling screw holes and applying a coat of finish, Jon moved the completed hive into position and transferred an existing bee colony into their new home. He also added a layer of reflective bubble insulation near the top and used a clear panel over the entrance area so activity could be observed without fully opening the hive.
Reflecting on the Build
Weeks after the move, Jon reported that the bees seemed to be settling into their new space well, with steady activity in and out of the entrance. He also gave a peek inside, showing the brood area and general cluster patterns, noting that only time would tell how the colony handled the coming winter.
If this hive performs well through the season, Jon plans to build at least one more, since he keeps additional colonies elsewhere on his property. This build offers a practical, approachable option for anyone interested in horizontal hive designs, especially those who want frame access at a consistent working height rather than lifting stacked boxes.
See This’s plans here: https://jonpeters.com/products/long-hive-plans
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
Jon’s full-scale drawing approach before touching any lumber is a habit worth stealing for any project outside a standard cut list. When you’re working out custom joinery like frame rests and grooves, drawing it out at actual size catches spacing errors way before they turn into wasted material. It’s a simple trick, but it saves a lot of headaches down the line.
The stacked dado work on the table saw is a great method for repeatable grooves, but it’s worth reminding folks to go slow and keep the fence locked down tight between passes. Even a small shift can throw off alignment between the front and back panels, and with a project like this where everything needs to line up for the frames to sit level, precision matters more than speed.
Using a mix of pocket screws and face screws for strength is smart thinking — cross-grain joints really do rely more on the glue than the fastener, so backing that up with long-grain connections where you can makes for a sturdier box over time. Filling those holes afterward isn’t just cosmetic either; any gap in an outdoor structure like this is an invitation for pests, so that’s a good general practice beyond just beehives.
Sanding factory finish off plywood before it’s near a food source (or in this case, bees and honey) is a reasonable precaution. Not all coatings are food-safe, and when in doubt, it’s better to remove the unknown variable than risk it.