Choosing the right screw can make the difference between a project that holds up for years and one that splits, loosens, or looks unfinished.
With so many options at the hardware store, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed — but most woodworkers only need a handful of reliable screws for nearly every project.
The best screw depends on your wood type, project needs, and whether it will live indoors or outdoors.
By understanding screw design, size, and material, you’ll be able to stock the right ones and use them with confidence.
When to Use Screws — and When Not To
Screws are great for jigs, shop projects, quick assemblies, and anywhere you might need to take things apart later. They’re also useful for attaching tabletops or securing parts in ways that allow for seasonal wood movement.
For most furniture, glue is actually the stronger and more reliable choice. I often use screws as backup fasteners or to hold parts in place while glue cures, but I rarely rely on them as the only joinery method.
Nails are even less common in woodworking. Aside from brads or small finish nails that hold trim in place temporarily, screws outperform nails in strength, precision, and durability.
Why Screw Selection Matters in Woodworking
The wrong screw can weaken joints, cause splitting, or leave an unsightly finish. Picking the right one ensures your project stays strong, durable, and professional-looking.
Structurally, hardened screws with deep threads grip securely and handle torque better than brittle, low-grade fasteners. A cheap drywall screw can shear off in hardwood, while a premium multipurpose screw is designed to hold tight.
Appearance is just as important as strength. A flat or tapered head can be countersunk for a smooth finish, while trim head screws nearly disappear in delicate moldings and finishing work.
Understanding Common Screw Types Used in Woodworking
Here’s a quick comparison of the most common screw types you’ll encounter:
| Screw Type | Best Use | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wood Screws | General woodworking | Strong hold, designed for wood | Require pilot holes in hardwoods |
| Drywall Screws | Temporary jigs, light-duty | Cheap, widely available | Brittle, weak, don’t seat cleanly |
| Deck Screws | Outdoor projects | Corrosion-resistant, durable | Slightly pricier than plain steel |
| Premium Multipurpose (SPAX, GRK) | Shop and furniture builds | Strong, self-drilling, star drive | Higher cost |
| Pocket Screws | Pocket-hole joinery | Pull joints tight, prevent splitting | Only useful in pocket holes |
Screw Anatomy and Drives
Every screw has four basic parts: the tip, shank, threads, and head. Each plays a role in how the screw cuts, grips, and sits in your project.
Flat or tapered heads are the most common in woodworking because they sink flush when countersunk. Pan or round heads sit above the surface and are useful when attaching hardware or non-wood materials.
Lag screws are heavy-duty fasteners with hex heads and coarse threads. They are used for structural connections like securing ledger boards or fastening heavy timbers.
Drive types make a big difference in ease of use. Phillips screws are still common but prone to cam-out when torque increases.
Square (Robertson) and star (Torx) drives provide far better grip and resist slipping. They let you drive screws faster, cleaner, and with less damage to the head.
Whenever possible, choose star or square drives for woodworking. Phillips is acceptable if it’s what you have, but it’s not the best option.
Choosing Screws Based on Material and Application
Steel, Stainless Steel, and Brass Screws
Steel screws are strong and affordable but prone to rust in humid or damp environments. They’re best for indoor projects in dry areas.
Stainless steel screws resist corrosion and are ideal for outdoor use or damp conditions. They are more expensive than steel but won’t rust or stain wood over time.
Brass screws look attractive and resist corrosion, but they’re softer and weaker. They work best for decorative hardware and light-duty applications where appearance matters.
Galvanized screws provide a middle-ground option for outdoor projects. Their protective coating helps them resist rust while being more affordable than stainless.
Matching Screws to Wood Types
Hardwoods like oak, maple, and cherry require pre-drilling to prevent splitting. Use screws with sharp points and fine threads that grip dense fibers effectively.
Softwoods like pine and cedar accept screws more easily but can strip out if overdriven. Coarse threads give the best grip, and self-tapping screws often eliminate the need for pilot holes.
Engineered woods like plywood and particleboard need screws designed for composite materials. Fine-thread screws reduce the risk of delamination or splitting in these materials.
How Long Should Your Screws Be?
A common question is how long screws should be for woodworking projects. A good guideline is to use a screw about twice the thickness of the piece you’re attaching so the threads bite deeply into the second board.
You may hear advice to use screws three times the thickness, but that’s usually more than necessary. The real goal is to make sure at least two full threads grab into the second piece for a solid hold.
Too short, and the joint will be weak and may pull apart. Too long, and the screw can split the wood or punch through the back side of your project.
Here’s a quick reference:
| Wood Thickness | Recommended Screw | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2″–3/4″ | #6 × 1–1 1/4″ | Pilot holes needed in hardwood |
| 3/4″–1″ | #8 × 1 1/4″–1 1/2″ | Most common shop screw |
| 1″–1 1/2″ | #10 × 2″ | For thicker boards |
| Over 1 1/2″ | #12 or Lag Screws | Heavy-duty builds |
Tips for Selecting Screws for Different Woodworking Projects
Special Considerations for Delicate or Hardwoods
Hardwoods always benefit from pre-drilled pilot holes to prevent splitting. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw’s core diameter for the best fit.
Countersinking ensures flat-head screws sit flush or just below the surface. This makes finishing easier and prevents raised spots that interfere with sanding or staining.
For softwoods and delicate materials, position screws at least 1.5 times the screw’s diameter away from the edge to avoid splitting. Even with self-tapping screws, pre-drilling near edges is a good habit.
Best Practices for Installing Screws in Wood
Drilling pilot holes makes screws easier to drive and reduces the chance of splitting. A hole that’s about 75% of the screw’s core diameter works well for most hardwoods.
Countersinking creates a clean, professional finish. A countersink bit sized to your screw head ensures the head sits flush or slightly below the surface.
When working near board ends or with dense hardwood, pre-drill every time. Even self-drilling screws perform better and create stronger joints when you take this extra step.
Stocking Screws for Your Shop
You don’t need every size and type available at the hardware store. A small, thoughtful inventory of screws will cover nearly every project you take on.
At minimum, keep a box of #8 × 1-1/4″ star-drive screws for everyday use. Add deck or stainless screws for outdoor projects, some pocket screws if you use a pocket-hole jig, and a few premium multipurpose screws for when strength really matters.
Premium screws may cost more, but they drive faster, strip less, and save frustration. With just these essentials on hand, you’ll be ready for almost any woodworking project.
Conclusion
You don’t need to master every specialty screw to succeed in woodworking. Focus on a handful of high-quality screws, match them to your project type, and use star or square drives whenever possible.
Pick the right length, drill pilot holes when needed, and keep a few versatile sizes stocked in your shop. With these basics, you’ll spend less time worrying about fasteners and more time building projects that last.