I’ve made more charcuterie boards than I can count.
Some turned out to be real eye-catchers and made great gifts.
Others taught me what not to do—mostly when it came to choosing the right wood.
At first, I picked whatever looked fancy at the hardwood dealer. If it had good color or wild grain, I figured it would work.
But I quickly learned that not all wood is safe—or practical—for a board that’s meant to hold food.
Some woods soak up moisture and oil like a sponge. Others smell funny, dull your knives, or even leach stuff you don’t want near meat and cheese.
Now I stick with a few reliable options that always turn out well.
Here’s my list of trusted woods for charcuterie boards—and the ones I won’t use again.
How To Choose the Right Wood for a Charcuterie Board
Charcuterie boards are all about presentation, but the wood still needs to stand up to real use.
These boards touch food directly—meats, cheeses, fruits, nuts, you name it. That means the wood must be safe, smooth, and sealed.
Here are the most important things to consider when picking a wood for your board:
- Appearance: A charcuterie board is meant to look good on the table. Choose woods with interesting grain, rich color, or contrast if you’re doing an inlay.
- Grain Tightness: Closed-grain woods like walnut and cherry keep oils, crumbs, and moisture from soaking in. Open-grain woods like oak trap food and bacteria deep in the pores.
- Porosity: The less porous, the better. Lower porosity means less chance of staining, warping, or absorbing food smells.
- Toxicity: Some exotic woods contain compounds that can cause allergic reactions or worse. If a wood isn’t known to be food-safe, skip it.
- Durability: A charcuterie board won’t see knife abuse like a cutting board, but it still needs to resist cracking and movement from washing and drying.
- Workability: If you’re making the board yourself, choose a wood that sands smoothly and finishes well with food-safe oil or wax.
7 Woods You Should Use for Charcuterie Boards
1. Walnut
Walnut is one of the most popular choices for charcuterie boards—and for good reason. It’s durable, rich in color, and has a tight grain that resists moisture and bacteria.
Why Walnut Works:
- Appearance: Dark chocolate brown with beautiful grain patterns
- Grain: Closed grain that’s naturally smooth and non-porous
- Food Safety: Doesn’t retain odors or stains from meats and cheeses
- Durability: Tough but not overly hard—resists cracking
- Workability: Easy to shape, sand, and finish with mineral oil or wax
Watch for: Some boards may have light sapwood streaks, which are safe but can look inconsistent if not blended into the design.
If I’m making a board as a gift, walnut is usually the first wood I reach for.
2. Cherry
Cherry brings a warm, reddish tone to charcuterie boards and develops a richer patina over time. It’s easy to work with and gives a clean, polished finish.
Why Cherry Works:
- Appearance: Light to medium reddish-brown that darkens with age
- Grain: Tight, uniform grain that resists trapping food
- Food Safety: Naturally non-toxic and easy to clean
- Durability: Softer than walnut or maple but holds up well for serving use
- Workability: Excellent for detail work, edges, and smooth finishing
Watch for: Slightly more prone to denting if handled roughly, but still great for non-cutting use.
3. Maple (Hard Maple)
Hard maple is a classic board material. Its clean, pale color puts the focus on the food, and it performs extremely well in terms of safety and durability.
Why Hard Maple Works:
- Appearance: Light cream to pale brown—clean and modern look
- Grain: Very tight and closed—ideal for food contact
- Food Safety: Resists bacteria, moisture, and staining
- Durability: Strong and dense without being too harsh on tools
- Workability: Takes a finish easily and stays smooth for years
Watch for: The light color can show stains over time if not oiled regularly.
4. Teak
Teak is naturally oily and water-resistant, making it a great option for charcuterie boards that may see juicy meats or soft cheeses. It’s durable and holds up well with minimal care.
Why Teak Works:
- Appearance: Golden brown with bold grain and occasional dark streaks
- Grain: Closed and naturally oily—resists moisture and staining
- Food Safety: Excellent resistance to bacteria thanks to its natural oils
- Durability: Hard and dense, built to last with minimal warping
- Workability: Sands well, but the oils can clog tools or finishes if not prepped
Watch for: The natural oils can make gluing tricky, and it’s a little tougher on blades during shaping.
5. White Oak
White oak is stronger and less porous than red oak, making it a workable choice for charcuterie boards if sealed well. It has a nice traditional look and takes stain or oil finishes evenly.
Why White Oak Works:
- Appearance: Light brown to tan, with a straight and uniform grain
- Grain: Closed enough to resist most food oils and moisture
- Food Safety: Safe when finished properly; resists odor retention
- Durability: Very strong and resists cracking or movement
- Workability: Responds well to hand tools and finishes beautifully
Watch for: Not as tight-grained as maple or walnut—requires a good finish to seal the pores.
6. Olive Wood
Olive wood makes stunning boards. Its swirling grain and natural antimicrobial properties make it ideal for display pieces and serving use.
Why Olive Wood Works:
- Appearance: Creamy base with dark, dramatic grain lines
- Grain: Very tight and smooth—less prone to absorbing moisture
- Food Safety: Naturally antimicrobial and non-toxic
- Durability: Dense and long-lasting, with high resistance to bacteria
- Workability: Great for small, artistic boards; finishes to a glossy sheen
Watch for: Often sold in smaller pieces and can be pricey compared to domestic woods.
7. Acacia
Acacia is a rising favorite for charcuterie boards. It’s tough, good-looking, and naturally resistant to water and bacteria.
Why Acacia Works:
- Appearance: Ranges from light to dark brown, often with striping
- Grain: Closed grain and dense texture help resist food contamination
- Food Safety: Naturally antimicrobial and food-safe
- Durability: Hard and stable, not prone to warping
- Workability: Easy to shape and sands to a smooth finish
Watch for: Quality varies depending on how it’s sourced—look for kiln-dried stock to avoid movement issues.
4 Woods to Avoid for Charcuterie Boards
1. Pine
Pine is cheap and easy to find, but it’s far too soft for a food-serving board. It dents easily, soaks up oils, and doesn’t hold up well over time.
Why Pine Should Be Avoided:
- Softness: Dents and scratches with minimal pressure
- Grain: Wide and open—traps food particles and bacteria
- Porosity: Absorbs moisture, oils, and odors quickly
- Durability: Warps, stains, and splits over time
- Food Safety: Not ideal for contact with meats, cheeses, or fruits
Bottom line: It’s better suited for shop projects, not the dinner table.
2. Red Oak
Red oak might look nice, but its wide, open grain acts like a sponge. It pulls in juices, stains, and bacteria—making it one of the worst options for serving food.
Why Red Oak Should Be Avoided:
- Grain: Extremely open and porous
- Food Safety: Easily absorbs liquids, leading to bacterial growth
- Durability: Strong structurally, but not safe for food surfaces
- Maintenance: Difficult to sanitize and prone to holding odors
- Appearance: Nice-looking wood, but not worth the risk
Bottom line: Save it for furniture or trim—not for food contact.
3. Poplar
Poplar is lightweight and affordable, but it’s too soft and absorbent for charcuterie boards. It stains easily and won’t hold up to moisture or oil exposure.
Why Poplar Should Be Avoided:
- Softness: Prone to dents, dings, and knife marks
- Grain: Fairly open, especially when unfinished
- Porosity: Soaks in juices and oils easily
- Durability: Tends to warp and split with repeated washing
- Food Safety: Not toxic, but not hygienic either
Bottom line: Cheap, but not a good long-term choice for serving food.
4. Cedar
Cedar smells great in a closet—but not on a charcuterie board. Its strong scent can transfer to food, and it’s too soft to hold up under use.
Why Cedar Should Be Avoided:
- Aroma: Strong, lingering scent that can affect food flavor
- Toxicity: Some species may cause allergic reactions
- Softness: Dents and scratches easily
- Porosity: Absorbs food oils and moisture quickly
- Durability: Can split or flake over time
Bottom line: Stick to using cedar for outdoor projects or storage chests—not for anything that touches food.
Should You Use End Grain for Charcuterie Boards?
End grain boards are commonly used for cutting, but they’re less common for charcuterie—and for good reason. While they look beautiful, they’re often overkill for a serving board.
What Makes End Grain Unique:
- Grain Direction: Fibers stand upright, so knives sink into the wood instead of cutting across it
- Knife Friendly: Ideal for cutting boards because they help preserve sharp blades
- Visual Appeal: Complex, checkerboard-like patterns that really stand out
- Durability: Tough and self-healing, but they do require more maintenance
- Absorbency: Soaks up more oil and moisture than face grain—needs regular oiling
Bottom line:
End grain boards are gorgeous and functional—but unless your charcuterie board also doubles as a cutting surface, they’re more effort than necessary.
For most people, face grain or edge grain is easier to make, easier to maintain, and still looks great on the table.
Tips for Finishing and Caring for Your Charcuterie Board
Even though charcuterie boards aren’t used for chopping, they still need to be cleaned and maintained properly—especially since they come into direct contact with meats, cheeses, fruits, and oils.
Here’s how to keep your board looking good and food-safe for the long haul:
Daily Care:
- Wash with warm, soapy water after each use. Avoid soaking or submerging the board in water.
- Dry immediately with a towel—don’t let it air dry while wet, or it could warp.
- Never put it in the dishwasher. The heat and water will ruin the wood fast.
Monthly Maintenance:
- Oil your board regularly with food-grade mineral oil or a board conditioning blend. This prevents drying, cracking, and moisture absorption.
- Apply wax after oiling for added protection and a smooth finish. Products with beeswax are especially effective.
Other Tips:
- Avoid acidic foods like citrus or vinegar if the board isn’t sealed well—they can stain or etch the surface.
- Use a dedicated board for strong-smelling foods like garlic or onions to avoid lingering odors.
- Store upright or flat in a dry area—never leaned against a damp wall or next to the sink.
With proper care, a well-made charcuterie board can last for years and still look good enough to display on your counter.
Final Thoughts
Charcuterie boards are meant to be enjoyed—whether you’re serving up meats and cheeses for a crowd or just want something nice for the kitchen counter.
Over the years, I’ve made boards out of just about everything. The ones that lasted—and got the most compliments—were always made from the right wood.
Personally, I keep coming back to walnut. It looks great, feels great, and holds up well without needing much fuss.
But any of the woods on the “yes” list will treat you right.
Pick a good one, take care of it, and your board will look better every time you use it.