This project was built and designed by Brett from Brett’s Basement Woodshop.
It features a pair of large floating picture frames made from weathered white oak, designed to give paintings a modern, gallery-style presentation.
Floating frames create a subtle shadow reveal between the canvas and frame edge, making the artwork appear as if it’s suspended in the center.
With reclaimed wood, hidden splines, and careful joinery, Brett delivers a clean, durable result that highlights both the art and the craftsmanship.
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Planning and Design Approach
Floating frames are built with a gap between the canvas and the inside of the frame, which creates the signature shadow effect. It’s a minimalist look that elevates the artwork without distracting from it.
Before cutting any wood, Brett referenced a frame planning worksheet developed by Michael Alm. This helped him dial in dimensions and joinery decisions, especially important when working with large-scale frames where accuracy is key.
Working with Reclaimed White Oak
The material of choice was weathered white oak, salvaged and full of character. Reclaimed wood comes with its challenges—uneven surfaces, knots, and checking—but it offers texture and patina that new lumber can’t match.
To prep the boards, Brett used a planer sled to flatten them safely. A small shim was hot-glued under one corner to stabilize warped boards and maintain even thickness as they ran through the planer.
The same technique was used to prepare the thinner backing boards for final assembly.
Cutting Accurate Miters
Each frame side was cut to width and then mitered at 45 degrees using a miter sled at the table saw.
Since the frames were oversized, stop blocks weren’t an option, so Brett carefully marked and matched opposite sides for identical lengths.
Miters this size leave no room for error. Getting the cuts perfectly aligned is essential to clean corner joints and square final assembly.
Strengthening with Hidden Splines
To reinforce the corners, Brett added hidden splines using a 45-degree jig at the router table. Mortises were cut into the inside of the miters and fitted with small strips of purpleheart.
These splines remain invisible from the outside but significantly improve strength. The purpleheart adds a subtle color accent internally and helps the frame withstand seasonal wood movement.
Stabilizing Knots and Imperfections
One frame board had a large knot that needed reinforcement. Brett used brown CA glue to fill and stabilize the knot, applying multiple coats to ensure it fully saturated and hardened.
This method acts like a thin epoxy and helps prevent future cracking or movement. It’s a great way to preserve beautiful but imperfect boards without sacrificing strength.
Custom Cauls for Large-Scale Clamping
To keep the frame square during glue-up, Brett built clamping cauls using strut channel, also known as Unistrut.
This metal framing material is straight, rigid, and perfect for applying pressure across long miters.
Using these custom cauls helped distribute pressure evenly and avoided bowing or shifting during glue-up—especially helpful when standard clamps fell short for the frame size.
Adding a Dado and Dry Fitting
Each frame received a recessed dado along the back to hold the backer board. This groove needed to be cut cleanly for the canvas to mount flush and stay secure.
To stage the glue-up, Brett dry-fit the frames using ratchet clamps and spacer blocks.
This step confirmed that the canvas would sit properly inside the frame and that the floating effect would be visually consistent on all sides.
Gluing and Assembly Technique
Glue-up was done with the frames facing down, giving full access to the corners and spline slots. Brett also glued a second frame facing upward so he could monitor alignment as the joints set.
Once the glue dried, the backer boards were secured with pocket screws for extra strength.
Although not strictly necessary, this added an extra layer of confidence in the frame’s durability over time.
Sanding and Water-Based Finish
Each surface was sanded progressively up to 220 grit, with final smoothing done after glue-up. Brett used adjustable sawhorses to support the large frames during sanding—an efficient solution for small shop spaces.
A satin water-based polyurethane was applied as the final finish. It offered durability while preserving the natural color and character of the weathered oak.
Between coats, he lightly sanded with 400 grit for a silky finish.
Mounting and Hanging the Artwork
Once the finish cured, the canvas was laid face down on a cushioned surface. Spacers were used in all four corners to maintain an even floating gap, and the frame was secured using brass wood screws.
Brett installed D-rings and tied professional hanging wire using tight loops and pliers. Plastic bumpers were added to the back corners to help the frame hang evenly and avoid scuffing the wall.
A Refined Frame for Standout Art
Floating frames are more than just a clean design—they also provide protection and a sense of depth to the artwork. With reclaimed materials, invisible joinery, and thoughtful touches, Brett delivered frames that look right at home in a gallery or living room.
This project is a great example of combining rustic material with refined techniques for a standout result.
It’s approachable for intermediate woodworkers and offers a rewarding challenge in precision and detail.
Please support Brett by visiting his website: https://www.brettsbasementwoodshop.com/.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
Working with reclaimed lumber always adds a layer of complexity, but the character it brings is worth every extra step. That planer sled technique with a hot-glued shim is spot-on for dealing with warped boards—it’s one of those simple tricks that saves you from tearout and keeps everything consistent. When you’re working with weathered material like this, taking the time to stabilize problem areas with CA glue makes all the difference in the final result.
Large miters are unforgiving, and that hidden spline approach is smart reinforcement. Purpleheart is an excellent choice for splines since it’s dense and stable, plus that subtle color contrast adds a nice detail even though it’s mostly hidden. The metal strut channel for clamping cauls is clever too—sometimes you need to get creative with clamping pressure when your frames exceed the reach of standard clamps.
The floating frame concept really does elevate artwork presentation. That shadow gap creates visual separation that makes pieces feel more substantial and gallery-worthy. Water-based poly is a solid finish choice here since it won’t amber over time and change the oak’s natural weathered tones. The key with any water-based finish is light sanding between coats—it makes a huge difference in the final smoothness.