This video was created by Billy from Newton Makes. It walks through a clear, step-by-step process for achieving a professional-quality finish on your woodworking projects using shellac and walnut oil.
Billy focuses on techniques that work across multiple wood types and don’t require expensive equipment. With careful sanding, the right mixture, and patient layering, this finish brings out the full character of the wood without leaving a plastic-like surface.
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Understanding the Wood You’re Finishing
The first step in any finishing process is understanding the type of wood you’re working with. In this case, Billy uses walnut and cherry—two hardwoods with very different grain structures.
Walnut is open-pored, meaning its grain is more textured and visible. This makes it ideal for finishes that fill and highlight the grain. Cherry, by contrast, has a tighter grain and smoother surface, which often results in a more subtle final appearance.
Preparing the Surface Properly
Before applying any finish, the surface must be sanded correctly. Billy recommends a sanding sequence that starts at 120 grit, then moves to 180, and finishes at 220 grit. Each stage removes imperfections and opens the grain in a way that helps the finish absorb evenly.
Any cracks or voids are filled before sanding is complete. This ensures the finish lays flat and doesn’t accentuate defects. Taking time here pays off in the later stages, especially if you want a smooth, tactile surface.
Choosing a Balanced Finish
Billy avoids overly glossy or thick finishes, instead opting for something that enhances the wood’s character without coating it like plastic. For this, he uses shellac dissolved in denatured alcohol.
This combination is easy to mix and fast-drying. A typical ratio is one part shellac to two parts alcohol, though Billy adjusts it depending on how thin or thick he wants the coat. The finish should go on smoothly but still penetrate the surface enough to highlight the grain.
Applying the First Coat
For the application, Billy uses a folded paper towel or cotton rag. The finish is rubbed into the surface in circular motions, creating a slurry of fine dust and shellac. While it might look messy, this slurry actually helps fill the grain in open-pore woods like walnut.
The first coat is applied generously but not sloppily. Keeping the finish moving helps avoid streaks or buildup in one area. Shellac is self-leveling to a degree, so as long as it’s spread evenly, it will blend into itself with each pass.
Drying and Sanding Between Coats
After the initial application, Billy allows the finish to dry thoroughly—typically overnight. The surface is then lightly sanded with 400-grit sandpaper to remove any roughness or raised fibers.
This sets the stage for the next coat, which is often thinner and more refined. Each layer builds depth, and sanding in between creates an ultra-smooth surface without dulling the clarity of the grain.
Adding Walnut Oil to Deepen the Finish
After building a few coats of shellac, Billy introduces a lesser-known but highly effective product: walnut oil. This oil enhances the richness of the wood and helps bring out deeper tones, especially in walnut and cherry.
Walnut oil is a drying oil, meaning it cures over time instead of remaining sticky. It penetrates the grain without leaving a greasy residue. A small amount is rubbed into the surface, then buffed out with a clean cloth.
Billy does acknowledge that some people may be concerned about nut allergies. While the risk of allergic reaction from cured walnut oil is extremely low, it’s something worth considering depending on your audience or customer base.
Final Buffing and Touch-Ups
With all layers applied and dried, Billy finishes the piece with a clean rag to remove any excess residue. He avoids waxing or adding extra topcoats, preferring a finish that allows the natural feel of the wood to come through.
The final result is not glossy but gently reflective, showing off the wood’s figure and movement. It’s a finish that feels as good as it looks—smooth, natural, and durable.
Try It On Different Woods
One of the main takeaways from Billy’s approach is that finishing is not one-size-fits-all. Each wood species responds differently, and experimenting with ratios, oils, or sanding sequences can lead to surprising results.
What matters most is understanding your material, preparing it carefully, and being patient through the process. Whether you’re finishing a cutting board, table, or decorative piece, the same principles apply.
Please support Billy by visiting his website here: https://www.newtonmakes.com/shop.
Matt’s Take
These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.
I really appreciate Billy’s approach here because he’s focusing on a finish that feels like wood, not plastic. That shellac and alcohol mixture is one of my go-to combinations in the shop too — it’s forgiving, builds nicely, and you can easily adjust the viscosity by changing your ratios. The beauty of shellac is that it dissolves into itself, so if you mess up a coat, you can often fix it with the next application.
That sanding sequence Billy uses is spot-on for this type of finish. Going beyond 220 grit before your first coat can actually work against you since you want the wood to accept that initial application. And his point about creating that slurry with the first coat is key — it looks terrible while you’re doing it, but that’s exactly what fills those open pores in walnut.
The walnut oil addition is something I’ve seen work beautifully, especially on darker hardwoods. It really does bring out depth that you can’t get with film finishes alone. Just remember to dispose of any oil-soaked rags safely — bunch them up in water or lay them flat to dry completely before throwing them away. Walnut oil may cure slower than linseed oil, but it’s still a drying oil that can generate heat as it cures.
This whole approach gives you a finish that actually improves with age and use, developing that natural patina that makes handmade furniture special. It’s definitely worth trying on some test pieces first to get your technique down.