How to Choose Concealed Cabinet Hinges / Making A Better Hinge Jig

This tip was shared by Jodee from Inspire Woodcraft. It covers how to choose the right concealed cabinet hinges and how to build a simple jig to make installation easier and more accurate.

Installing concealed hinges can be frustrating without the right tools or understanding of cabinet types. Jodee breaks down what you need to know about hinge selection and shows how to build a reliable jig using scrap materials for repeatable, clean results.

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Understanding Cabinet Construction

Before selecting a hinge, it’s important to know whether you’re working with framed or frameless cabinets. Framed cabinets have a face frame around the front, while frameless cabinets offer full access and a modern look by removing the frame entirely.

This distinction matters because it determines how and where the hinges will be mounted. Frameless cabinets usually have hinges that attach directly to the cabinet sides, while framed options can vary depending on door style.

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Overlay vs. Inset Doors

Cabinet doors typically fall into one of two categories: overlay or inset. Overlay doors sit on top of the cabinet frame, creating a bold appearance. Inset doors, on the other hand, are set inside the frame for a cleaner, more streamlined finish.

Knowing which door type you’re working with helps guide your hinge selection. Some concealed hinges are designed specifically for overlays, while others support inset mounting with different adjustments.

What to Look For in Concealed Hinges

Most concealed hinges require a 35mm diameter cup hole. This is a common size and is important to keep in mind when building your jig or selecting drill bits.

It’s also essential to measure how far the cup sits from the edge of the door. This measurement, often referred to as the cup offset, affects how the hinge moves and how the door aligns once installed.

Making a Hinge Jig from Scrap

A hinge jig helps ensure consistent and accurate hinge placement on every door. Jodee shows how to build a simple jig from scrap wood using two separate templates—one for the door and one for the cabinet.

The jig allows you to mark and drill in the same location across multiple doors without re-measuring. This is especially helpful when installing several hinges in a single project, where repeatability is key.

Building and Marking the Templates

Start by selecting sturdy, flat scrap pieces for your jig. Mark centerlines and key measurements using the hinge manufacturer’s specs, then transfer those to your template pieces.

Jodee recommends adjusting the cup depth slightly if needed to ensure a snug fit. Once the locations are marked, cut or drill out the holes to match your hinge’s size and spacing.

Drilling with a Self-Centering Bit

Using a self-centering hinge bit helps avoid alignment issues. These bits guide themselves into the right position, creating a perfectly centered pilot hole that matches the hinge’s hardware requirements.

This approach reduces the risk of error and leads to cleaner, more professional results. Jodee demonstrates how this bit works with the jig to produce accurate holes every time.

Putting the Jig to Use

Once the jig is complete, it’s easy to use. Align the jig to your cabinet or door, clamp if needed, and drill the holes using your self-centering bit.

For frameless cabinets, installation is especially straightforward. The hinges are mounted directly to the inside of the cabinet walls, and the jig ensures that each hole is placed in the right spot without extra adjustments.

Why a Jig Improves Your Workflow

Consistency is one of the biggest advantages of using a hinge jig. All your hinges line up evenly, giving the cabinet a polished and balanced look.

Efficiency is another benefit. Instead of measuring and marking every door by hand, the jig simplifies the process and speeds up your workflow. Plus, it can be reused across multiple projects with minimal wear.

A Low-Cost Upgrade to Your Shop

Jigs like this don’t require special materials or tools to build. A few leftover boards and some careful measurements are all it takes. It’s an easy way to improve accuracy and save time in the shop.

Jodee’s method shows how a simple shop-made jig can take the frustration out of hinge installation. For anyone who regularly works with concealed hinges, it’s a valuable tool worth making.

Support Jodee by visiting his online store here: https://inspirewoodcraft.com/collections/all.

Matt Hagens

Matt’s Take

These are my personal thoughts and tips based on my own experience in the shop. This section is not written, reviewed, or endorsed by the original creator of this project.

Concealed hinges can definitely be intimidating at first, but once you understand the basics that Jodee covers, they’re actually pretty straightforward to work with. The key insight about framed versus frameless construction is spot-on — it really does change everything about your hinge selection and installation approach. I’ve found that taking a few minutes to properly identify your cabinet type upfront saves a lot of headaches later.

That 35mm cup size is indeed the standard, and having a quality Forstner bit in that size makes all the difference. The self-centering bits Jodee mentions are worth their weight in gold for hinge work. They eliminate so much of the guesswork and drilling mishaps that can happen with regular bits. Just make sure your bit is sharp — dull bits can tear out the wood fibers, especially on cross-grain areas.

The jig approach is brilliant for anyone doing more than a couple doors. Even if you’re just doing a single cabinet, the time spent making a simple jig pays for itself in accuracy and peace of mind. Scrap plywood or MDF works great for this, and the beauty is that once you make it, you can use it for years. I’d add that marking your jig clearly with permanent marker helps avoid confusion down the road when you pull it out of storage.

One safety note worth mentioning: always secure your workpiece well when drilling those cup holes. That 35mm Forstner bit can grab unexpectedly, especially when breaking through the back side of thin door material. A solid clamp setup keeps everything stable and your fingers safe.

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