“The best router trick I know” by Stumpy Nubs
Router bits can be quite an investment, and many woodworkers often find themselves using the same few profiles for every project. However, Stumpy Nubs, shares an invaluable skill that can save you money while enhancing the professional appearance of your woodworking projects. This technique, known as profile stacking, allows you to create beautiful and complex profiles for trim moldings and picture frames using just a handful of common router bits.
Understanding Profile Stacking
Profile stacking is a method that enables woodworkers to layer different profiles to achieve depth and dimension in their projects. By learning this technique, you can create any profile you can imagine without needing to invest in expensive, specialized router bits. This blog will cover three examples of picture frames that demonstrate the power of profile stacking, but keep in mind that this technique can be applied to any trim or molding project.
Example 1: Creating Depth through Layering
The first frame showcases how layering can be used to add depth. By standing one layer on edge and laying another layer flat, you can create the illusion of a thicker or wider stock than what you are actually using. For this project, a 3/8-inch roundover bit is employed to create a BN nose profile on the edge of the board.
It is essential to work with a wide piece of stock whenever possible, as this is much safer than attempting to route on a thin strip. After creating the desired profile, the narrow strip can be trimmed off. In cases where wide stock cannot be used, pressure-sensitive double-sided tape can be applied to attach a wider scrap to the edge of the narrow piece. This provides a secure hold while routing a rabbet on the back edge.
When cutting the rabbet, it is advisable to make two or three passes rather than attempting to remove a large amount of material in one go. This incremental approach ensures a cleaner and more controlled cut. After completing the cuts, finish the profile with a quinch core box bit. The final result will reveal the different layers, which can be highlighted with stains.
Example 2: Adding Width and Depth
The second frame builds on the layering principle by stretching the inner layer, thus creating both width and depth. A chamfer on the lower left corner of the frame design helps give the appearance of a thinner frame when viewed from the side, while still looking deep when viewed straight on.
Starting with a BN nose, a quarter-inch roundover bit is used to create a finished profile that has a blunter appearance. Again, it is crucial to do as much of the cutting as possible before trimming the molding from the wider workpiece. The next step involves cutting a rabbet with a straight bit, widening it through multiple passes while ensuring the fence is moved away from the bit to avoid dangerous climb cuts.
In instances where attaching a scrap to a thin molding is impractical, using push blocks can help keep your hands safe. The router bit should be raised incrementally while stretching the cove through several passes. This technique is often overlooked during design but is essential for creating stunning picture frames and moldings. Don’t forget to include rabbets in your frame design to support glass and backer boards.
Example 3: Incorporating Inlay Techniques
The third frame introduces the technique of inlaying, which requires stock thicker than 3/4 inches. To achieve this, two boards are glued together and then ripped to a final thickness of 15/16 inches using a table saw. The first groove for the inlays is cut to an eighth of an inch deep to allow for glue without it squeezing out onto the frame’s face.
Proper planning of the order of cuts is crucial for this project. The second groove is cut deeper to account for a cove on the face of the workpiece. It is helpful to visualize how each cut will be made and what will support the workpiece during those cuts. As the cove height increases, applying pressure near the top of the workpiece is essential to avoid rocking it toward the bit, which could spoil the cut.
Finishing Touches
Chamfering the back of the frame adds a subtle shadow between the frame and the wall, enhancing its visual appeal. It’s important to be careful when holding the workpiece flat on the router table, as mistakes can occur. Fortunately, many issues can be fixed with a second pass.
Inlays can be created using a pair of roundover bits, and thinner stock can be obtained by ripping a board and adjusting its thickness through the table saw. The final inlays can be colored before being glued into their slots in the frame. Adding contrasting colors can be achieved by using different types of wood or stains, but it’s critical to apply a pre-color conditioner if using the latter.
Glue Application and Clamping Techniques
When gluing your layers together, use the glue sparingly to prevent excessive squeeze-out. The joints are not structural, so only enough glue to hold the layers together is necessary. Clamping can be challenging, especially with complex profiles. Bandy clamps from Rockler are recommended for effectively securing these intricate designs.
For cutting miters, an ultimate miter sled is incredibly helpful due to its accuracy and features. This tool is worth considering for anyone looking to enhance their woodworking experience.
Conclusion: Expanding Your Woodworking Skills
By mastering the techniques discussed, you will gain the skills and confidence needed to design and create your own complex profiles using basic router bits. If you’re interested in more examples, downloadable drawings for ten different picture frame profiles are available for your use. Additionally, links to videos demonstrating further applications of these principles, such as crown moldings and curved moldings, can be found.