This project was built and designed by Billy from Newton Makes. It’s a comprehensive guide to building high-quality picture frames using clean joinery, shop-made jigs, and creative design touches.
Billy walks through the entire process—from choosing the wood and cutting miters to adding splines, mortises, or decorative accents. Whether you’re after a simple frame or something more artistic, this project covers all the essentials and more.
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Planning the Frame Dimensions and Design
The frame begins with thoughtful planning. Billy explains how to size the width and thickness of the frame so it complements the artwork inside without overwhelming it.
It’s important that the frame can house not just the picture, but also the glass, backing board, and hardware. A small inset—or rabbet—provides space for these layers and ensures everything fits securely.
Milling the Lumber and Cutting the Rabbet
Boards are milled slightly thicker than required to allow room for sanding and squaring up later. Once the dimensions are set, a rabbet is cut into the back edge of each frame piece to hold the artwork.
Billy demonstrates two approaches—cutting the rabbet before assembly, or routing it afterward once the frame is glued up. Each method has trade-offs, and which you choose depends on your tools and experience.
Miter Joints with a Sled or Saw
Perfect miters are key to a clean-looking frame. Billy recommends a miter sled for the table saw, which makes it easier to cut consistent 45-degree angles on all four sides.
For smaller frames, a miter saw can also be used if it’s well-calibrated. The key is repeatability—making sure every angle matches up tightly to avoid gaps at the corners.
Dry Fit and Assembly
Before gluing, all four frame sides are dry-fitted to check for square. Painter’s tape can help hold the pieces temporarily in place to verify alignment.
Glue is applied in two phases—first as a thin coat to the miter faces, then a second coat before final assembly. A band clamp or miter clamp keeps even pressure on all four joints while the glue sets.
Reinforcing the Corners
For added strength, Billy shows how to add splines to the corners using a jig that safely cuts into the miters at an angle. Thin hardwood strips are glued into the kerfs and trimmed flush.
These splines strengthen the joints and can also act as a decorative feature if cut from contrasting wood. For a cleaner look, internal joinery like dowels or loose tenons can be used instead.
Using a dowel jig or a router table, Billy shows how to drill into the miter faces and embed reinforcements out of sight. This is a great option when you want strength without adding visual detail.
Cutting and Installing the Glass
Glass is cut slightly smaller than the rabbet opening to prevent binding. A straight edge, light oil on the cutter wheel, and patience all help make a clean, accurate score.
Once scored, the glass is snapped using the ball end of the cutter. The trick is to let the score guide the break naturally—rushing can lead to cracks outside the cut line.
Backing and Hanging Hardware
The backing board is cut from thin hardboard or plywood. Small points or flexible clips are driven into the rabbet to hold everything in place without adhesives.
Hanging hardware is added behind the backing, making sure it’s centered and secure. Leaving a slight recess behind the backing allows for easy installation without the frame rocking on the wall.
Creating a Decorative “Cracked” Frame
Billy also builds a second version of the frame using layered woods to create a cracked or fractured effect. A scroll saw is used to cut abstract shapes from redheart layered over a walnut base.
The top layer is segmented by cutting through a printed template applied with contact paper. Each section is glued down individually to build a dramatic layered design.
The glue is applied carefully to avoid squeeze-out, and the finished surface is sanded lightly to keep the detail sharp. It’s a creative twist on a basic frame that gives the project a sculptural feel.
Final Sanding and Finishing
Before applying finish, all edges are eased and the surface is sanded with progressively finer grits. This helps the oil soak in evenly and enhances the grain pattern.
Billy uses teak oil to finish both frames. The oil penetrates the wood without creating a heavy surface coat, leaving a soft, natural finish that highlights the color and texture of the material.
Why Picture Frames Are a Great Project
Picture frames teach a wide range of woodworking fundamentals—accurate cutting, repeatable joinery, and attention to detail. They’re also quick to make, and once you’ve built a few, the process becomes faster and more enjoyable.
Billy’s use of jigs, clever techniques, and detailed explanations make this a valuable video for woodworkers at any level. Whether building a basic frame or an artistic one, there’s a lot to learn in this project.
Please support Billy by visiting his website here: https://www.newtonmakes.com/shop.