This live edge river table is designed and built by Johnny Brooke from Crafted Workshop, inspired by the legendary Greg Klassen. This guide will take you through the steps to create your own gorgeous table that features a flowing glass insert, giving it a unique river-like appearance.
Materials and Tools
- Live edge cherry slab
- Quin blue plate glass
- ArtResin epoxy resin
- Minwax wipe-on poly (satin)
- ¾” x 3” walnut for legs
- 8 mm x 50 mm dominoes
- Forstner bit for drilling holes
- Router with a ¼” x ½” template bit
- Drum sander
- Random orbit sander
- Clamps
- Table saw and miter saw
Step 1: Selecting Your Slab
Start by picking up a live edge cherry slab. Johnny found his for a bargain price of $55, although it had some severe bowing, twisting, and cupping. Such imperfections make it a perfect candidate for this project, as you will be cutting it in half anyway.
Step 2: Flattening the Slab
Rip the slab roughly down the center using a circular saw and a straight edge. After that, flatten the two halves using a planer and jointer. If you don’t have these tools, a router jig can also be used before cutting the slab in half.
Step 3: Creating a Template for the Glass
Cut a piece of cardboard to the rough shape you want for the glass insert, trying to match the organic flow of the slab edges. Once satisfied, take it to a local glass company to have the glass cut. The cost for the glass was approximately $100.
Step 4: Routing the Slab for the Glass Insert
Secure the slab pieces to your assembly table and clamp the glass on top. Use double stick tape under the glass edge to ensure it is flush with the wood. Use a router with a ¼” x ½” template bit to cut a channel for the glass, approximately ¼” deep.
Step 5: Shaping the Edges
Remove any loose bark and shape the edges using a chisel and spoke shave. Then, refine the edges with a random orbit sander. Mark and cut the ends of the slab to ensure the glass will be flush.
Step 6: Sanding the Slab
Next, it’s time for sanding. Use a drum sander for efficiency, working your way up to 220 grit. This step is crucial for a smooth finish.
Step 7: Filling Holes with Epoxy
If you find any holes, stabilize them with epoxy. Johnny used ArtResin for its clarity and lack of fumes, allowing him to work without concerns about dust contamination.
Step 8: Creating the Legs
For the legs, cut rectangles from walnut. If you lack milling equipment, you can purchase S4S lumber. Assemble the legs using a Festool Domino XL for strong joints.
Step 9: Drilling for Leg Attachments
Drill holes in the top pieces of the legs for the bolts that will attach them to the slab. Make sure to elongate the holes towards the outside edge to allow for wood expansion.
Step 10: Final Assembly
Once all pieces are sanded and ready, assemble the table by threading the bolts into the tapped holes. This design allows for easy disassembly if needed.
Step 11: Finishing Touches
Apply a finish using Minwax wipe-on poly. Johnny suggests wiping on a coat, letting it dry, and repeating the process four or five times for a beautiful satin finish.
Conclusion
And there you have it! With a bit of effort and the right tools, you can create a stunning live edge river table that’s both functional and a work of art.