DIY Daybed with Storage Drawers

This project is by Brad Rodriguez from Fix This Build That. This DIY daybed is not only functional but also offers ample storage, making it perfect for kids’ rooms or guest spaces.

In this step-by-step guide, you’ll learn how to create a twin-size daybed with storage drawers using simple joinery and materials available at your local home center.

Step 1: Gather Materials and Tools

Before you begin, it’s essential to gather all the materials and tools you’ll need for the project. Here’s a list of what you’ll require:

  • Plywood for the panels
  • 2×4 lumber for the frame
  • 2×2 lumber for accents
  • MDF panel for the bed base
  • Drawer slides
  • Wood glue
  • Paint or finish of your choice

For tools, you’ll need:

  • Mobile miter saw
  • Table saw
  • Kreg K4 Pocket Hole Jig
  • Drill
  • Oscillating spindle sander
  • Clamps
  • Brad nailer

Having the right tools will make the process smoother and more enjoyable.

Step 2: Cut the Panels

Start by ripping down the plywood and cutting the panels for the headboard, footboard, back, and storage base. The headboard and footboard will be mirror images of each other, featuring a frame and panel design. The frames will be constructed from 2x4s, which you’ll refine later using the table saw.

Using a mobile miter saw station, cut all the parts to size. Since there are numerous repetitive cuts, employing a stop block will ensure that everything fits perfectly during assembly. This attention to detail will pay off later.

Step 3: Create the Frame and Accents

Above the panels, you’ll add short 2×2 accents, which can be made from the shorter lengths of 2×4. For smaller cuts like these, a 10-inch spacer on your miter stop can be very helpful. It’s important to ensure consistency in your cuts.

Next, cut the parts for the back assembly. If some of the long stretchers are too long for your miter station, clamp them together to make sure they are all cut to the same size. Patience is key when working with 2x4s, as they can often be wet, knotty, and difficult to find straight.

Step 4: Preparing for Assembly

To prepare the 2x4s, rip them down to three and a half inches wide, and then to three inches wide, removing the rounded edge in the process. This will create clean edges. You can also save the offcuts for kindling or shims.

For the 2x2s, make an initial cut to get one straight edge, then set the fence to an inch and a half to make two cuts from each 2×4. This results in nice, clean edges, but be careful, as they can be quite sharp!

Step 5: Round Over Edges

To round over the edges quickly, clamp a hand sander to your bench and run each edge over the sander a couple of times. If you don’t have a router, this method is effective for achieving smooth edges, especially on softer woods.

For a softer corner on the headboard and footboard, use a fender washer to lay out a curve on the uprights. An oscillating spindle sander will help you achieve that rounded corner smoothly.

Step 6: Assemble the Headboard

Now, it’s time to start assembling the headboard. Use pocket hole joinery for most of this project. Set up your Kreg K4 pocket hole jig and make the necessary pocket holes. This jig will save you a significant amount of time compared to cheaper handheld jigs.

Begin the assembly by joining the top and side pieces first. Then, position the two by twos to place the middle stretcher and secure it to the side. Use a small spacer to ensure consistent spacing between each piece, securing them to the top rail with a square to maintain alignment.

Step 7: Attach the Panels

With the headboard assembled, it’s time to add the half-inch MDF panel that will rest on top of the storage frame. Cut the panel to length using the Kreg Accu-Cut track and your cordless circular saw. This offcut will serve as a spacer for the headboard panel.

Start in one corner of the panel and work your way around, securing it to the frame while ensuring that both the panel and frame pieces are clamped flat. Once secured, add the lower rail and attach it to the panel before finishing off the assembly by securing the other upright to the side.

Step 8: Assemble the Footboard

The footboard is constructed in the same manner as the headboard. Therefore, the assembly process will be similar. Just remember to take care of the pocket holes as well.

Since this is a painted piece, you’ll need to fill any exposed holes. A great option for painted surfaces is Bondo. Mix it, overfill the visible holes, and sand them down flush after they dry.

Step 9: Create the Back Panel

For the back of the bed, cut a large plywood panel framed by two by fours. Drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the panel and in the horizontal stretchers. Assemble it similarly to the headboard, starting with one corner of the 2×4 frame.

Use the half-inch MDF spacer to position the plywood panel just like you did with the headboard. Clamp everything firmly in place and secure the panel to the frame using one and a quarter inch pocket screws.

Step 10: Add Detail to the Back Panel

To enhance the appearance of the back panel, cut two additional pieces to match the size of the frame boards. Use glue and brad nails to secure the MDF to the back of the panel, creating the illusion of three separate panels.

Step 11: Build the Storage Base

The final part of the bed is the storage base, which is constructed from 2x4s to keep costs down. The base will consist of a large frame box with three sections for drawers. Cut all parts to size at the miter station, using clamps and gang cuts for the long pieces.

Drill pocket holes in the vertical and horizontal supports to prepare for assembly. Two long stretchers and four vertical supports will form the back frame of the base. Ensure everything is clamped firmly and square for easier assembly later.

Step 12: Assemble the Drawers

Move on to the drawers, which will be made from 3/4 inch plywood. Due to their width, use a 3/4 inch bottom as well. Rip the parts to width and crosscut them to fit the drawer openings. Each front and back will receive pocket holes on the outside faces.

Glue and clamp the sides to the front and back, then screw everything together. Instead of the typical quarter-inch captured bottom piece, cut an exact fitting 3/4 inch bottom for these drawers. This will allow the bottom to act as a lever to pull the drawer square while using the front edge to lock it in place with a brad nail.

Step 13: Painting the Base

Once the drawers are assembled, paint the base before installation. Apply three coats of spray-on latex paint to the headboard, footboard, back, and front of the base. After the paint dries, drill pocket holes in the ends of the front frame to connect it to the head and footboard.

Step 14: Install the Drawers

Set up to mount the drawers using temporary supports made from MDF and plywood offcuts. These supports hold the drawer slides in place while acting as spacers. Since the drawers will feature false fronts, use a scrap piece of plywood to set the position of the drawer slide.

Secure the slide extensions to each side of the drawer, then pull the drawer out and secure the back of the slides with additional screws. Repeat this process for the remaining two bays to install all three drawers efficiently.

Step 15: Attach Drawer Fronts

Measure each drawer opening and rip the drawer fronts to height and width. Since the drawer fronts are inset, use playing cards to achieve a consistent reveal around each drawer. Pre-drill eighth-inch holes in the fronts of the drawers for minor adjustments once in place.

Attach the false fronts to the drawers using one and a quarter inch screws. Mark the center of each drawer front on a piece of painter’s tape to lay out the drawer pulls. Use the Kreg cabinet hardware jig to drill the holes, ensuring easy installation of the pulls.

Step 16: Final Assembly

Now that all parts are ready, it’s time for the final assembly. Move everything into the desired room and lay the base down. Use 2x4s under the corners of the base to create a flat reference surface before raising the base on edge.

Secure the footboard in place using pocket screws and two and a half inch wood screws along the bottom and back of the frame. Bring in the back panel and secure it to the base frame with pocket screws from the back.

Step 17: Finishing Touches

Once the back panel is secured, lay down the half-inch MDF to hold the mattress in place. Install a 1×3 along the front edge of the frame to complete the structure. Finally, install the drawers, and your daybed is ready for use.

Now that you’ve completed this DIY daybed, get out there and build something awesome!

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