This tip is by Jodee from Inspire Woodcraft. It’s an innovative, low-cost solution to one of woodworking’s most frustrating problems: getting long boards perfectly straight without access to a jointer.
Instead of relying on expensive machines or complex jigs, Jodee shows how to build a simple auxiliary fence for just $32 using MDF. The result is a reliable system for ripping straight edges on long boards—one that any woodworker can use, regardless of shop size.
Watch the full video and subscribe to Jodee’s channel:
Why Straight Line Ripping is So Difficult
When working with long boards, even slight crowns or wavy edges can cause major issues. Running these boards through a table saw without a reliable edge can result in cuts that wander, bind, or burn.
Worse still, if you don’t have a long jointer—or if the board is narrower than your jointer’s capacity—typical solutions fall short. That’s where Jodee’s creative setup comes in.
Materials and Setup
Jodee built his solution using two 8-foot primed MDF boards and one 10-foot board. These are inexpensive, easy to work with, and most importantly, reliably straight.
The goal was to create a long auxiliary fence that mounts to a standard table saw fence. This system allows one board to act as a “bearing” against the auxiliary fence, guiding a second board into a straight cut.
Building the Fence System
To start, Jodee cut a centered groove down one of the 8-foot MDF boards. This groove is made to hold the edge of the second 8-foot piece, forming an L-shaped structure that acts as the main support.
To ensure the groove is consistent, he uses either a router table or a dado stack. Featherboards help hold the MDF firmly against the table during this step, ensuring accuracy throughout the cut.
Once the groove is complete, the second 8-foot board is trimmed to remove imperfections, including any roundovers on the factory edge. This creates a tight, flush fit when inserted into the groove.
Assembly and Mounting
The two MDF pieces are then joined with screws to form a solid auxiliary fence. The clean, square interface makes this fence ideal for straight-line ripping, especially when the material itself can’t be trusted to provide a straight reference.
To mount the fence, Jodee routes dovetail slots into the back side of the assembly. This lets him attach it to the table saw fence using microjig dovetail clamps, creating a secure and easily adjustable setup.
The 10-foot MDF board is then used as a straight “bearing” surface for ripping. By placing it on top of the rough board and sliding both together along the auxiliary fence, the saw can cut a clean, straight edge.
Final Adjustments Before Cutting
Setup is simple but important. Jodee places a piece of scrap wood on top of the board to help determine the correct height for the auxiliary fence. Once locked in, the blade is raised to the proper height and aligned with the edge of the auxiliary fence.
For fine-tuning, Jodee uses a micro adjuster to get precise alignment between the saw blade and the bearing edge. This tool isn’t required, but it makes the process smoother and more accurate.
First Cut Results
With everything in place, the first cut is made. The bearing edge rides against the auxiliary fence, guiding the workpiece through the saw. Because the bearing and fence are both straight, the resulting cut on the workpiece is also straight—no jointer required.
This method is especially helpful when the board has rough or bowed edges. The auxiliary fence provides enough contact surface to ensure a clean, repeatable result, even on boards 10 feet or longer.
Why MDF Works So Well
MDF is often overlooked in woodworking, but for this application, it’s ideal. It’s cheap, easy to find in long lengths, and comes with reliably straight edges from the factory.
Compared to plywood, MDF is more consistent and easier to machine. It also doesn’t have the voids or warping that can come with cheaper plywood, making it more accurate for this kind of jig.
Answering Common Questions
Some viewers ask why you couldn’t just clamp a board on top and run it along the standard fence. That approach works for shorter boards but lacks the length and stability needed for long stock. The auxiliary fence offers more control and consistency.
Others ask about using featherboards. While useful, featherboards only help if your material is already fairly straight. This system is more effective when the wood is twisted or uneven and you need to create a reference edge from scratch.
A Smart Shop Upgrade for $32
Jodee’s approach highlights what makes woodworking so rewarding—finding practical, creative ways to solve real problems. For less than the price of a quality blade, you can build a jig that dramatically improves your ability to handle long boards.
This setup is especially helpful for small-shop woodworkers without large jointers or track saws. With just a few MDF boards and clamps, you can create reliable, repeatable results for a wide range of projects.
Support Jodee by visiting his online store here: https://inspirewoodcraft.com/collections/all.